Back on track: Trains to return to historic Istanbul station

A picture taken on Jan. 15, 2018 shows scrap trains decorated with graffitis at the Haydarpasa train station in Istanbul. (AFP)
Updated 15 February 2018
Follow

Back on track: Trains to return to historic Istanbul station

ISTANBUL: Built in the first decade of the 20th century as Europe's gateway to the east, Istanbul Haydarpasa railway station stands proudly on the Asian side of the Bosphorus, its gothic towers looming over the waters.
The imposing facade has witnessed and survived more than a century of turbulent and sometimes tragic history; the collapse of the Ottoman Empire, World War I, the deportation of Armenians, military coups and a devastating November 2010 fire that destroyed the roof.
But this most historic of railway stations now lacks its most fundamental component - trains.
Since 2013, the celebrated terminus has not seen any train traffic after being shut for restoration work and a major upgrade of Turkey's railway network.
With the refurbishment stalling, top local officials openly spoke of plans to sell off the station, possibly turning it into a hotel, shopping centre or entertainment complex.
The situation sparked alarm among Turkish architecture and heritage activists, who staged weekly demonstrations to salvage its future.
In 2012, when the number of trains pulling in and out of the station had already dropped off, Haydarpasa - pronounced Haydarpasha and named after the neighbourhood where it is located - was placed on the watch list of endangered heritage by the World Monuments Fund NGO.
However, Turkish architecture activists, local officials and Turkish State Railways (TCDD) told AFP that the station's future as a railway terminus was now assured after a period of uncertainty.
"It will remain in public ownership. There were debates but right now there is no such danger (of privatising) the train station," Aykurt Nuhoglu, the mayor of the Istanbul district of Kadikoy where the station is located, told AFP.

"The trains will begin to arrive as of 2019."
An official from TCDD added, asking not to be named: "It is being restored as a train station, nothing else is being considered."
Once the station is reopened, it should be the terminus for the new high-speed trains from Ankara which are currently stopping in Pendik, well outside the centre, as well as again being a hub for commuter trains.
Haydarpasa station - designed by two German architects - was inaugurated in its current form in 1909, five years before the outbreak of World War I.
It was a symbol of the friendship between the Ottoman Empire and imperial Germany under Kaiser Wilhelm II, who yearned to expand Berlin's influence deep into the Middle East and had sealed a strong relationship with Sultan Abdulhamid II.
The station was to be the key hub of the kaiser's dream of a Berlin to Baghdad railway passing through Constantinople, Aleppo and Mosul, with a branchline south to Damascus.
One of the darkest moments in its history came on April 24, 1915 when Haydarpasa was used as the start point for the deportation of the first convoy of Armenians rounded up in Istanbul. Turkey denies Armenian assertions that the ensuing mass slaughter amounted to genocide.
Until its closure five years ago, Haydarpasa was a busy station, with commuter trains but also overnight services to towns in eastern Turkey like Kars and Van, as well as a service going as far as Tehran.
It was also the starting point of the Istanbul-Baghdad train service - the Taurus Express - which features in the opening chapter of Agatha Christie's "Murder on the Orient Express" but is now indefinitely suspended.
"Haydarpasa is not just a building of architectural importance but is at a critical point for the railways," said Ishak Kocabiyik, a former general secretary of Turkey's United Transport Workers' Union.
"There were attempts to turn this land into a trade centre and a cruise port. We have so far stopped such attempts by using our right to opposition," he added.
Activists insist that it was only due to pressure from civil society that plans to transform the station into a hotel or shopping complex were thwarted.
"Our solidarity was a mission that will go down in history," said lawyer Ersin Albuz, a key force in the campaign. "We will keep going until all trains stop here and when that happens, only then will we end our campaign."
Some architects accuse the government under President Recep Tayyip Erdogan, a former mayor of Istanbul, of trampling on heritage in a drive to modernise the city, but the government insists it is merely implementing much-needed infrastructure improvements.
These include a major revamp of Turkey's railway network, which at the start of the millennium had barely changed from its pre-WW I layout, meaning most Turks took the bus or plane.
But what activists now want is the entire area around Haydarpasa to be revitalised and the terminus to become as bustling as any station in Europe.
"We want commuter trains and regional trains to stop there, just like back in the old days," said Kocabiyik, indicating a degree of scepticism about the authorities' assurances for the station's future.
The head of the Istanbul Chamber of Architects, Sami Yilmazturk, who has been bitterly critical of the government's infrastructure drive, described the station as a "gate of Istanbul on Europe".
Vowing to keep watch on the government's plans, he said: "Today it is being restored as a train station but I am concerned that might change two days later."


Emirati designer Hamda Al-Fahim dresses Anya Taylor-Joy for Tiffany event

Updated 26 April 2024
Follow

Emirati designer Hamda Al-Fahim dresses Anya Taylor-Joy for Tiffany event

DUBAI: US actress Anya Taylor-Joy this week was spotted at the Tiffany & Co. celebration of the launch of Blue Book in Beverly Hills wearing a dress by Emirati designer Hamda Al-Fahim.

The actress from “The Queen’s Gambit,” who is the ambassador for the American luxury jewelry label, impressed her fans in a head-turning dark golden brown dress that featured a corset-styled bodice paired with a fitted velvet skirt that flowed down, culminating in a short train trailing behind her.

The dress is called the Velvet Canyon and is from Al-Fahim’s Earthy collection.

Caption

Al-Fahim took to Instagram to share pictures of the star championing her design with her 498,000 followers.

“Anya Taylor-Joy (looks) stunning in our Velvet Canyon,” she wrote on her Stories. 

For her jewelry, Anya chose a glitzy diamond necklace embellished with red rhinestones, accompanied by matching earrings and a ring. She completed the ensemble with a statement chunky silver bracelet.

She styled her blonde hair with a side part, which cascaded in soft waves past her shoulders.

Taylor-Joy was accompanied by a star-studded lineup of celebrities, including Olivia Wilde, Emily Blunt, Gabrielle Union, Quinta Brunson, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Reese Witherspoon, Laura Harrier, Suki Waterhouse and Aimee Song, among others.

Wilde flaunted a black figure-hugging dress with a plunging neckline, Blunt was radiant in a white sequin dress, Union opted for a custom-made Staud dress in black and white, Brunson wore a black velvet midi-gown from Roland Mouret and Huntington-Whiteley chose a white Carolina Herrera dress.

Al-Fahim is an Abu Dhabi-based designer known for her elegant and ethereal aesthetic, often featuring intricate embellishments, delicate fabrics and flattering silhouettes. Her creations combine femininity and sophistication, blending traditional craftsmanship with modern sensibilities.

Seen on red carpets, premieres and high-profile events worldwide, Al-Fahim’s creations have captured the attention of international celebrities including Rihanna and Jennifer Lopez.

Al-Fahim has also previously teamed up with US luxury handbag designer Tyler Ellis on a limited-edition capsule collection in 2022.


REVIEW: Sofia Boutella’s heroic efforts can’t save ‘Rebel Moon — Part Two’

Updated 26 April 2024
Follow

REVIEW: Sofia Boutella’s heroic efforts can’t save ‘Rebel Moon — Part Two’

DUBAI: “Rebel Moon — Part One: A Child of Fire” drew scathing reviews (our writer described it as perhaps “the most discombobulating collection of mismatched sci-fi tropes ever committed to film”). “Part Two: The Scargiver” simply adds to that legacy.

The story: Former Imperium soldier Kora and the surviving band of ragtag warriors she’s recruited return to the moon of Veldt — home to simple farming folk in danger of being blown to bits by the mighty Imperium for failing to supply the unreasonable grain quota demanded of them. With just a few days before the deadline, Kora and her band must train the villagers to fight (and harvest the grain in just three days to provide a bargaining chip). What Kora doesn’t know is that Admiral Noble, the bad guy she ‘killed,’ is still alive. And bent on vengeance.

Before the enemy arrives, the warriors tell their life stories in a trust-building exercise — one of the clunkiest pieces of exposition ever written. There are slow-mo shots of the harvest gathering and a brief interlude to show that Kora and farmer Gunnar are very much in love.

Then, thankfully, we’re into the battle(s). Here, at least, director Zack Snyder doesn’t disappoint, even giving an original twist to the ‘spaceship plummeting from the sky’ trope by staging a showdown between Kora, Gunnar and Admiral Noble on a floor that becomes increasingly vertical. Below them, the villagers fight heroically against odds very much stacked against them, even with the help of Nemesis and her two flaming definitely-not-lightsabers.  

The well-constructed battle scenes, though, aren’t enough. Not even with a cast fighting as heroically as the villagers to salvage something. Sofia Boutella, as Kora, emerges with most credit, proving herself a convincing action hero who deserves better than this material to work with (spoiler alert: perhaps even material that allows the heroine to kill the bad guy herself, without the intervention of her boyfriend).

Yes, no one’s sitting down to watch an “epic space opera” in the expectation of thought-provoking dialogue, but “Rebel Moon” is like the result of forcing a seven-year-old to watch all things “Star Wars” and “Star Trek” in random order, then asking them to write down what happened. The best thing to say about “The Scargiver” is that it finishes — but even that comfort is tainted by Snyder’s cynical setting up of a potential part three. Possibly because that seven-year-old fell asleep before writing an actual ending.


Saudi Arabian history on display at Abu Dhabi Book Fair 

Updated 26 April 2024
Follow

Saudi Arabian history on display at Abu Dhabi Book Fair 

  • Selections from London-based rare-book dealer Peter Harrington’s offering at the UAE fair 

‘Ibn Saud press photograph’ 

According to notes from rare books specialists from Peter Harrington’s team, this image from archives of The Times newspaper was taken in what was then called Hejaz, following a “critical and secretive meeting between (founder of Saudi Arabia) Ibn Saud (center) and the British representative Sir Gilbert Clayton (left) — one of a pivotal series of negotiations which led to the Treaty of Jeddah in May 1927.” The two discussed “various outstanding questions affecting the relations of the Kingdom of the Hejaz and Nejd with the neighboring states of Iraq and Transjordan” to help determine the northern borders of Saudi Arabia. “Discussions over the borders were protracted and complex, with the towns of Maʿan and Kaf the object of particularly intense debate,” the notes state. 

‘Pilgrimage to El-Medinah and Mecca’ by Richard F. Burton 

In this three-volume first edition, complete with illustrations, of “one of the most extraordinary travel narratives of the 19th century,” the British explorer, writer and polyglot Richard Francis Burton recounts his Hajj journey, made “in complete disguise as a Muslim native of the Middle East” at a time when fewer than half-a-dozen Europeans had made the pilgrimage — forbidden to non-Muslims. “It surpassed all preceding Western accounts of the holy cities of Islam, made Burton famous, and became a classic of travel literature, described by T. E. Lawrence as ‘a most remarkable work of the highest value,’” the team from Peter Harrington note. In Makkah, Burton performed all the rites of the pilgrimage and his subterfuge remained undiscovered. 

‘Map and Overview Presenting the Hejaz Railway Route’ 

This map from 1903 depicts the route of the ambitious Hejaz Railway project. It “depicts a very broad area, extending from just north of Hama, Syria, all the way south a little way past Makkah, in the Hejaz; it covers most of Syria, all of Palestine, the Sinai Peninsula, the Suez Canal, and all the north-western Arabian Peninsula,” Peter Harrington’s rare book experts write. “It clearly delineates those parts of the railway that are in place and those under construction … with each station labelled. Additionally, it depicts the two alternative routes proposed for extending the line to Makkah, employing broken lines, while another line traces the proposed (but unrealized) route of a rail line from Makkah to Jeddah. The map also labels important roads and caravan routes.” 

Four years after this map was published, the book seller’s notes state, the railway reached AlUla, which is not marked on this map, although Mada’in Salah (now Hegra) is, which today is the site of one of two museums dedicated to the Hejaz Railway.  

By 1908, the railway had reached Madinah, where, the notes state, “for various political reasons, it had to be terminated.” Nevertheless, they continue, “until the outbreak of the First World War, it allowed hundreds of thousands of pilgrims to make the Hajj in safety and with relative ease.” 

‘Material from the library of Peter O’Toole by T.E. Lawrence’ 

Billed by Peter Harrington as an “insightful archive, spanning Lawrence’s transformation from man of the moment to unwilling celebrity, from the library of Peter O’Toole, whose breakthrough portrayal in David Lean’s 1962 biopic still shapes perceptions of the famous Arabist. Autograph material from Lawrence is always highly prized, but rarely is its provenance so apposite.” 

The centerpiece of the material is a photograph and an unpublished letter written by Lawrence (who became known as Lawrence of Arabia following his journeys across the Middle East, including modern-day Saudi Arabia), framed as a piece and gifted to the English actor who played Lawrence in the aforementioned biopic by his wife, Sian, and a friend not long before the premiere of the movie. The letter makes clear Lawrence’s difficult relationship with his celebrity, and is cutting about his own book, “The Seven Pillars of Wisdom,” saying that he did not own a copy himself (“No man yet has ever wanted to read his own book”) but that his mother and “little brother” did, “and that is plenty for the family. Nobody reads it: it is worth too much money. ... It is a rotten book, you know.” 

‘Oil Region in the Desert of Saudi Arabia’ 

This 1950 image, “after a painting by the German artist Michael Mathias Kiefer,” is one of a series of geographical pictures intended for use in the curriculum of German schools. “The painting juxtaposes Arab figures in traditional garb with images of drilling rigs, a lorry, and oil storage tanks, creating a strikingly orientalist image,” Peter Harrington’s notes state. “In the middle of the composition, a pipeline bisects the image, a forceful reminder of the centrality of oil to the modern Saudi Arabian economy. In the foreground, members of a group of travelers, possibly intended to be Bedouins, rest on a carpet and let their camels drink from a water tank. Away in the background, before a distant oasis, more travelers arrive at a campsite, their camels heavily laden. Their destination is the oil infrastructure that crowds the right of the image.” 


Recipes for Success: Chef Antonio De Crecchio offers advice and a gnocchi with duck ragu recipe

Updated 26 April 2024
Follow

Recipes for Success: Chef Antonio De Crecchio offers advice and a gnocchi with duck ragu recipe

DUBAI: Antonio De Crecchio began his career back in 2006, working as a pizza chef in Naples, Italy. He was, he says, just 14 years old. 

“I’ve always loved food and cooking, but that’s when I truly fell in love with cooking,” he tells Arab News. “My first boss was tough on me, but it taught me a lot about handling the job and pushing myself to get better.” 

Antonio De Crecchio began his career back in 2006. (Supplied)

He continued to work as a pizza chef at various Rossopomodoro outlets across the UK, including London, Birmingham, and Newcastle, before returning to Italy to lead the team at Rossopomodoro in Torino and Milano. In 2019, he moved to the UAE, taking a job as pizza chef at Antica Pizzeria da Michele in Dubai. He is currently executive chef of Amò at Via Toledo in Dubai’s Address Beach Resort.  

“Working here has been emotional for me,” he says. “After spending many years in a casual dining restaurant, opening a fine dining restaurant feels like reaching a higher level,” he said. 

Here, De Crecchio — affectionately known as Chef Toto — discusses tips for amateur chefs, his love for Italian cuisine, and his most challenging dish. 

Amò is at Via Toledo in Dubai’s Address Beach Resort. (Supplied)

What’s your top tip for amateur chefs cooking at home? 

Invest in a Bimby. It’s a great tool for making pizza dough, ensuring that the result matches what you’d get at a restaurant. Plus it saves a lot of time, allowing you to focus on other tasks. Making dough correctly requires a lot of experience, so having the right equipment can make a big difference. 

When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?  

Yes. Often. 

And what’s the most common issue that you find in other restaurants? 

One thing I notice, especially with Italian food, is that the pasta is not always cooked al dente, as it should be. This can be challenging for me because I have a strong preference for the traditional Italian food that my grandma used to make. 

Tiramisu. (Supplied)

 

What’s your favorite cuisine when you go out? 

My favorite cuisine is Italian, especially pasta. It reminds me of my home country and brings back fond memories. 

What customer request or behavior most annoys you? 

The requests that annoy me the most are when they ask for pasta with chicken and pizza with pineapple. 

What’s your favorite dish to cook?  

My favorite dish to cook is pasta, because it reminds me of Sundays back home when my mom used to prepare it for our family lunches. 

Pizza Chiena, a savory pie. (Supplied)

 

What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right? 

The most challenging dish for me to perfect is our egg dish. It requires cooking at a low temperature to maintain a soft interior, and achieving the right texture for the foam that accompanies it is crucial. If you don’t achieve the exact balance, then the dish loses its identity. 

As a head chef, what are you like? Are you a disciplinarian? Or are you more laid back?  

As a head chef, I prioritize discipline, but I avoid shouting at my staff. In the kitchen, maintaining both discipline and empathy with my team is essential for success. 

Chef Antonio’s gnocchi with duck ragu  

Gnocchi with Duck Ragu Recipe. (Supplied)

INGREDIENTS 

1kg potatoes; 100g parmesan cheese; 15g salt; 1 egg; 375g all-purpose flour; 1kg duck legs; 250g carrots, chopped; 250g white onion, chopped; 250g celery, chopped 

INSTRUCTIONS 

For the duck ragu: 

1. Heat a pot on the stove until it reaches smoking point. Add blended oil. 

2. Season the skin side of the duck legs with salt. Sear them until the outer surface of the meat is scorched, then transfer to a deep tray, cover them with their fat and place in the oven at 150°C for two hours. 

3. In the same pot used for searing, add the celery, white onion and carrots to the duck fat and deglaze with approximately 4 liters of chicken stock. 

4. Bring the stock to a boil, then slowly add each leg to the boiling stock. 

5. Transfer the stock and duck legs into a large oven dish and heat in the oven at 160°C for two hours. 

6. Remove the dish from the oven, take the duck legs out of the liquid and gently pull the meat from the duck legs, setting it aside. 

7. Transfer the remaining liquid to a pot and reduce for one hour. 

8. Allow the reduction to cool down, then mix it with the duck meat to prepare the duck ragu. 

For the gnocchi 

1. Steam the potatoes until tender, then mash. 

2. Add grated parmesan cheese, salt, egg, and flour, and combine to form a dough. 

3. Roll the dough into ropes and cut it into small pieces to form gnocchi. 

4. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil, then cook the gnocchi until they float to the surface. Remove and set aside. 

5. Toast the cooked gnocchi with butter and additional parmesan cheese in a pan until lightly browned. 

6. Plate the gnocchi and top with the prepared duck ragu. 


Two Saudi hotels listed in Conde Nast’s Hot List of new openings from the last year

Updated 25 April 2024
Follow

Two Saudi hotels listed in Conde Nast’s Hot List of new openings from the last year

DUBAI: For those planning their next staycation, two hotels in Saudi Arabia have found a spot in Conde Nast’s prestigious annual Hot List, with one of them located in the heart of Riyadh.

The St Regis Riyadh and Six Senses Southern Dunes, The Red Sea have joined the list of best hotel openings from the last year, spanning the globe, from Argentina and Zimbabwe to Nepal and Spain, and more.

The St Regis Riyadh is “the only hotel inside Via Riyadh – a bijou mall of designer boutiques, hand-picked restaurants, and a cinema complex, wrapped within monumental sandstone walls at the edge of the Saudi capital’s Diplomatic Quarter – the St Regis Riyadh nods to the hotel brand’s New York heritage as well as its new Saudi home,” according to the publication.

Six Senses Southern Dunes, The Red Sea, is the first resort to open in the 28,000-square-kilometer expanse of sea, reefs, islands and inland desert known, simply, as The Red Sea. (Supplied)

Meanwhile, the new Six Senses Southern Dunes, The Red Sea, is the first resort to open in the 28,000-square-kilometer expanse of sea, reefs, islands and inland desert known, simply, as The Red Sea. It’s one of Saudi Arabia’s ambitious tourism-focused giga-projects, part of the Kingdom’s Vision 2030 aimed at diversifying the economy and heralding a new future for the nation.