PARIS: Couscous may be the signature dish of North Africa, but steaming plates of the stew-topped semolina are also served up in West Africa and around the Mediterranean.
Since 1998 the Italian island of Sicily has been the unlikely host of the couscous-making world championship known as Cous Cous Fest, which bills itself as a “festival of cultural integration.”
Each September chefs convene on Sicily, whose Mediterranean location opposite Tunisia has made it a cultural crossroads throughout history, battling to be crowned couscous king or queen.
Palestinian chefs George Suheil Srour and Elias Bassous won the competition last year, with a couscous topped with grilled sea bream, pomegranate and fennel crumble.
In France, from the mid-20th century an influx of North African laborers from colonial territories and French expats returning after decolonization helped popularise the dish.
But here too, couscous already had a history.
In his 1534 novel “Gargantua,” the French writer Francois Rabelais described banquets on tables featuring meats of all kinds, accompanied by soups and couscous.
The 1938 version of the Larousse Gastronomique, France’s hallowed food bible, featured an entire chapter on the dish.
Spain also has long been gobbling couscous, not least due to centuries of Muslim rule on the Iberian peninsula.
“From the 10th century durum wheat was cultivated in Spain and couscous landed on the tables of the working classes,” write Hadjira Mouhoub and Claudine Rabaa in their book “The Adventures Of Couscous.”
But the local aristocracy was rather partial too, they added — as related in the 13th-century cookbook “The Excellences of the Table,” by Andalusian gastronome Ibn Razin Al Tujibi.
Couscous, a dish beloved far beyond North Africa
Couscous, a dish beloved far beyond North Africa
Where We Are Going Today: Haru Japanese restaurant in Riyadh
- Haru’s strengths lie in its atmosphere and service, while the kitchen still has room to sharpen flavors, especially in its sushi
Haru Japanese restaurant opens quietly on Takhassusi Street in Riyadh, with a modest entrance leading into a calm, softly lit space of pale wood and simple design.
The menu offers sushi, hot dishes, and desserts at mid-range prices. Service is friendly and efficient, with staff happy to explain the dishes and offer guidance.
We started with sushi rolls, which were neatly presented but leaned heavily toward sweetness. Generous sauces often overwhelmed the fish, and in some pieces, the rice lacked the light firmness expected from good sushi. While not unpleasant, the overall result felt less refined than the setting suggests.
Hot dishes fared better. Grilled and sauced items showed more balance, with bolder flavors working more naturally. Portions were reasonable for the price.
One weak point was the wasabi, which lacked heat and depth — a small detail, but one that matters in Japanese dining.
Dessert was the highlight. A matcha-based sweet arrived well balanced, earthy and light, and a complimentary final bite left a pleasant last impression.
Haru’s strengths lie in its atmosphere and service, while the kitchen still has room to sharpen flavors, especially in its sushi.
