DUBAI: As the glitzy fashionistas of this world flit between New York, London and Paris during the ongoing fashion week season, some critics in the Middle East are zeroing in on the apparent lack of diversity when it comes to the models who grace the region’s magazine covers.
Some of the Middle East’s most coveted fashion glossies have come under fire online, with social media users kicking up a fuss over what they claim is a lack of Arab representation.
With the launch of Vogue Arabia in March, the cover seemed like a slam dunk, with the magazine scoring US model Gigi Hadid as its first-ever cover star. Even though Hadid herself proudly shared the cover photo on Instagram, saying: “I think the beautiful thing about there being international Vogue (editions) is that, as a fashion community, we are able to celebrate, and share with the world, different cultures,” not all responses were positive. The issue was exacerbated when, in September, the magazine chose to feature Gigi’s sister Bella on the cover, which sparked backlash again. Similarly, when Kim Kardashian West graced the cover of Harper’s Bazaar Arabia in September, some fans were not happy.
Social media users took to Twitter to share their thoughts on the various covers, asking magazine editors why foreign stars were chosen for the high-impact cover shoots.
“Why don’t (you) photograph actual Arab models instead! There are so many beautiful young Arab women that deserve to be on this,” one user commented on Facebook, in reference to the Harper’s Bazaar Arabia cover.
Back in March, many asked why Gigi, who is in fact half-Palestinian, was on the cover instead of an Arab model from the region. In response to the controversy, Vogue Arabia’s Special Projects Director Mohieb Dahabieh explained the importance of the magazine cover in an editorial piece.
“The time has come to open our eyes and embrace our own ancestry and let go of a hindering common approach that praises the foreign and ignores the home-grown. This cover is the first step on that journey,” Dahabieh wrote.
Similarly, Vogue Arabia’s Editor-in-Chief Manuel Arnaut defended the choice of Bella as the magazine’s September cover star in an interview with The New York Times.
“Bella Hadid is one of the most celebrated models of the time, plus she has a link with the region, being half-Palestinian (and) also a Muslim,” he said.
The struggle for fashion magazines in the region is to balance the popularity of well-known Western celebrities, who can guarantee sales, with more bespoke regional models who are well-known for their contributions to Muslim and regional fashion, style and progress. Although the Hadid sisters claim to be proud of their Palestinian heritage, it must be said that the trend of American models gracing Arab magazine covers could lead to the promotion of purely Western beauty ideals in a region that has its own heritage, culture and beauty standards.
Sarah Williams, deputy editor of Dubai-based La Femme Magazine, agrees that representation is critical. “I think it’s really important in today’s very polarized political climate for Muslims to be well-represented in fashion, film and the public eye.”
The larger question for these models relates to the price of fame. Do these young stars suddenly end up on a platform, having to be a spokesperson for a religion or culture they never sought to represent? “Young Muslims like Gigi and Bella Hadid and Zayn Malik have kept (largely) quiet about their faith — maybe because they don’t particularly practice, or possibly because it simply hasn’t occurred to them, at their tender age, that they (are) representatives of the faith and culture. I’m not sure. (However), both Bella and Zayn have recently been open in interviews about their faith. While Zayn says he is not practicing and doesn’t want to be judged by his cultural or religious background, he is, at the same time… very proud of his background,” Williams said.
For her part, Bella recently opened up to US-based Porter magazine, saying: “I am proud to be a Muslim.”
From the perspective of fashion magazine editors, the benefits of portraying diverse models include more than just the issue of representation — the Muslim population’s expenditure on beauty and fashion is significant. According to Forbes Magazine, “Muslim consumers spent an estimated $243 billion on clothing in 2015. Modest fashion purchases by Muslim women were estimated at $44 billion that year, which was approximately 18 percent of the total. Muslim consumer spending on clothing is expected to reach $368 billion by 2021, which would be a 51 percent increase from 2015.” The power of the young millennial Muslim consumer would be foolish to underestimate. According to Allure magazine, in Saudi Arabia alone, the spend on cosmetics has almost doubled in the last 10 years, from $280 million in 2005 to $535 million in 2015 and “the average employed woman in the Kingdom spends between 70 to 80 percent of her earnings on beauty products.”
But even with this financial incentive, the controversy on representation remains. However, with this backlash and buzz comes increased exposure and platforms for Muslim youth. It is the conversation sparked by the first cover of Vogue Arabia that was an impetus for the diverse coverage that the magazine is now setting as standard.
As Landon Peoples, fashion writer for Refinery 29, noted: “It’s worth mentioning that Vogue Arabia has done a better job at diversifying its cover talent than most international editions of the publishing monolith. In its short existence, it’s featured the two American-Palestinian sisters, Dutch model Iman Hamaam, Indian model Pooja Mor, Muslim-American model Halima Aden and Jourdan Dunn (the magazine’s first Black British model). It goes without saying that all of these women come from different geographical and cultural backgrounds and hold their own when it comes to representing the widespread diversity of the magazine’s circulation, which spans across 22 countries.”
Representation as a trend is slow but definitely on the up and up. The battle is making diversity more than a trend — it has to be the norm. The responsibility for that lies with the gatekeepers to fashion’s most public platforms — the editors and journalists who are curating the faces and features that will define the next generation.
Williams shared her thoughts on the burden of responsibility placed upon fashion journals. “As a journalist and a fashion editor, it’s my responsibility to make sure that my readers feel represented, whether they’re Asian, European, African or Catholic, Hindu, Buddhist or Muslim. I think we as fashion editors need to be open to feedback… I think editors here are particularly well-placed to tell the truth about our Muslim fellow humans and to make sure that we spread the word that, at the end of the day, we’re all much more alike than we think we are.”
The battle for diversity on the Mideast fashion scene
The battle for diversity on the Mideast fashion scene
Versace, CH Carolina Herrera collaborate with Jessica Kahawaty for Ramadan campaigns
DUBAI: Australian Lebanese model Jessica Kahawaty took to social media to share images from her collaboration with Italian luxury label Versace for the month of Ramadan, days after the influencer worked on a Ramadan campaign with New York-based label CH Carolina Herrera.
The model and restauranteur — she founded Dubai’s Mama Rita eatery alongside her mother — shared a series of images promoting Versace’s Ramadan edit with her 1.5 million Instagram followers. Kahawaty was pictured in a pink floor-length dress with bell sleeves that boasted a neckline adorned with intricate pink, white and silver beads and crystals. Completing the look, Kahawaty is seen clutching a matching mini pink embellished purse while her voluminous brunette locks were styled in a 90s blowout.
“Ramadan with Versace,” she wrote, sharing closeup images of her look.
It is not the first time the model has worked with Versace. Last year, she teamed up with the brand for a campaign for Eid Al-Fitr.
“I’m finally a Versace girl,” she wrote at the time. “I’ve been wanting to work with Versace for years.”
“It’s a brand that speaks to my 90s baby self, a brand that never gave into fads or trends, one that remained true to its Italian ethos of family, togetherness, heritage and authenticity,” she added.
Released at the outset of Ramadan, CH Carolina Herrera’s Ramadan campaign starring Kahawaty features a curated edit of modest wear from the label, combining distinctive patterns and vibrant color schemes. In the photographs, Kahawaty wears various ensembles, including jumpsuits and striking, floor-length gowns.
Kahawaty has worked with luxury brands such as Tod’s, Prada, Boucheron, Chloe, Gucci and more.
She was also tapped by Boss for a new campaign this month. In the polaroid-style images she shared on Instagram, Kahawaty wore a brown bomber jacket paired with a crisp white shirt, complemented by a black bag adorned with a chunky gold buckle and chain.
Boss has released similar images for other A-list stars, including US superstar Demi Lovato, British model Jordan Dunn, Bollywood star Sonam Kapoor, Colombian singer and songwriter Maluma, South Korean actor Jeon Changha and Canadian Belgian racing driver Lance Stroll.
The digital campaign, which began in January 2023, initially starred US Palestinian producer DJ Khaled, US Dutch Palestinian model Gigi Hadid, Syrian Olympic swimmer Yusra Mardini, Lebanese influencer and entrepreneur Karen Wazen, Emirati host Anas Bukhash and Iraqi para-athlete Zainab Al-Eqabi.
Yara Shahidi features in star-studded Cartier campaign
DUBAI: Part-Middle Eastern actress Yara Shahidi, K-Pop star Jisoo, Irish Oscar nominee Paul Mescal, British singer Labrinth and Hong Kong rapper Jackson Wang all star in a campaign by Cartier released on Tuesday.
“Grown-ish” star Shahidi, whose father is Iranian, stars in the new film and image campaign that celebrates the Trinity jewelery collection turning 100 years old.
Designed by Louis Cartier in 1924, Cartier is marking the centenary of the Trinity ring’s creation with the new campaign, the release of three new designs and, previously, a trio of parties.
Harvard graduate Shahidi, who is a brand ambassador for Cartier and a global ambassador for French luxury label Dior, was on hand as the label marked the occasion with a party in New York on Feb. 1.
“The Maison chose to host three near-simultaneous events in the three capitals where the three Cartier brothers — Louis, Pierre and Jacques — settled at the beginning of the 20th century. These are the cities where they built the Maison’s three temples: Rue de la Paix, Fifth Avenue and New Bond Street,” Cartier said in a released statement.
Author and Cartier family member Francesca Cartier Brickell spoke to Arab News about the jewelry house in February at Dubai's Emirates Airline Festival of Literature. The writer of “The Cartiers: The Untold Story of the Family Behind the Jewelry Empire” shared insights into the family’s past, as well as the label’s unexpected beginnings.
Louis-François Cartier started as an apprentice in the jewelry trade and worked long hours before founding the business in 1847. “It’s so easy to imagine that Cartier today was always a big business, but it wasn’t – it was a startup. And it was a startup by someone incredibly poor and without money. There was a revolution the first year after he established it, and he thought the business would go under,” Cartier Brickell said.
While Louis-François’ son Alfred grew the business, his grandchildren, Louis, Pierre, and Jacques took the Cartier name further and forged bonds with royalty in Europe, the Middle East, and India.
For her part, Shahidi also starred in a campaign for French label Jean-Paul Gaultier in September 2023 and the 24-year-old was nominated for a NAACP Image Award earlier this year.
The NAACP Image Awards is an annual awards ceremony presented by the US-based National Association for the Advancement of Colored People. The awards show honors outstanding performances in film, television, theater, music, and literature.
Shahidi was nominated for the outstanding actress in a motion series category for her role in “Sitting in Bars with Cake,” a romantic comedy-drama film directed by Trish Sie and written by Audrey Shulman.
Model Sandra Shehab partners with New York-based fine jewelry label
DUBAI: US Egyptian model Sandra Shehab took to social media this week to partner with US jewelry label David Yurman in order to promote the label’s Sculped Cable collection.
“My @davidyurman pieces always elevate the look,” the model captioned a short video, in which she can be seen trying on a set of the fine jewelry label’s signature creations. The Sculpted Cable collection is a play on the jewelry house’s signature cable motif. The updated version transforms the original twisted helix into a carved relief.
Founded in 1980 by David and Sybil Yurman, the jewelry house’s signature motif was created not long after. According to the brand’s website, David shaped 50 feet of gold wire into the first Cable design, with pink tourmaline and emerald end caps, in 1982. The twisted motif became a calling card for the brand, so much so that David described it as “the river that runs through all of our designs,” in a previously released statement.
In her post, Shehab shows off a pair of Sculped Cable bangles, including one bangle boasting hand-set pavé diamonds, as well as a pair of rings and earrings.
The New Jersey native came into the limelight in 2018 after appearing in Season 24 of “America’s Next Top Model.” Although she was eliminated in episode eight, coming in 8th place, she scored fans on social media for her portrayal of Muslim women on screen.
"I feel I represented my community pretty well. I wanted to show Muslim girls that they can do whatever they want. I hope they see that," Shehab said as she left the show.
The star is now spotted at fashion weeks around the world and has worked with numerous brands on social media.
Shehab attended Lebanese designer Elie Saab’s Fall/Winter ready-to-wear 2024-25 collection showcase at Paris Fashion Week in March and was in good company. The model was spotted in the crowd alongside influencers Olivia Palermo, Nathalie Fanj and Tamara Kalinic.
Shehab is also no stranger to the world of jewelry — her sister Amy is a fine jewelry designer and founded an eponymous label that has branched out into handbags and accessories.
Imaan Hammam fronts new fragrance campaign for Jean Paul Gaultier
DUBAI: Dutch-Moroccan-Egyptian model Imaan Hammam is fronting yet another perfume campaign for French luxury brand Jean Paul Gaultier — this time for their Scandal line. The luxury brand released both male and female fragrances for their new drop, Scandal Absolu.
The label released a series of campaign images, featuring the 27-year-old model alongside Dutch model Parker Van Noord.
While Hammam made her catwalk debut back in 2013 walking for Jean Paul Gaultier, she was only recruited to star in the brand’s campaign in 2021 for the launch of the So Scandal perfume range.
Meanwhile, Hammam recently made a head-turning appearance at the launch party for a new lipstick collection by Estee Lauder and Sabyasachi Mukherjee, wearing a mini straight-cut floral dress in a palette of green, white and black. She accessorized with black tights and black heels.
Her glossy locks were styled in a half-up, half-down hairdo. Embracing a bold makeup choice, Hammam opted for a dramatic glam look featuring sharp black eyeliner.
Taking to Instagram to share her excitement, Hammam called it a “dream collaboration” and thanked Estee Lauder and Mukherjee for the partnership.
The new matte-hued lipsticks, with shades named Calcutta Red and Rouge Bengal, draw inspiration from the vibrant palette of colors found in India.
Each lipstick is encased in packaging adorned with the signature Sabyasachi Tiger medallion, crafted from 24-karat gold.
Hammam was announced as the global ambassador for the US cosmetics giant in May 2023.
“It’s truly an honor and a dream to join the Estee Lauder family. I’m so excited to show you all the incredible things we have in store,” she wrote on Instagram at the time.
Hammam previously spoke about what the appointment means to her.
“This is the most amazing opportunity to represent and empower girls around the world. As a Moroccan-Egyptian woman, I am incredibly honored to take on this role with such a long-standing brand that promotes diversity and women’s empowerment in the beauty space,” she said.
Hammam is one of the most in-demand models in the industry. She has appeared on the runway for major fashion houses including Burberry, Fendi, Prada, Marc Jacobs, Moschino, Balenciaga and Carolina Herrera. She has also starred in international campaigns for brands including DKNY, Celine, Chanel, Versace, Givenchy, Giorgio Armani and Tiffany & Co.
Gigi Hadid highlights collaboration with beauty brand
DUBAI: US Dutch Palestinian model Gigi Hadid this week teased a new collaboration with US cosmetics brand Maybelline.
“It’s me, your resident @maybelline super stay gal,” she wrote on Instagram, sharing a mirror selfie wearing red lipstick and soft makeup. She was dressed in a white T-shirt featuring a smiley face, complemented by a black jacket. Hadid also showcased her new soft-bob hairstyle, which she debuted earlier this month.
The model then shared a close-up picture of a camera, hinting that she could be teaming up with the brand for a new campaign.
Last week, the model posted a picture of herself and wrote: “Lil glam with some of my new @maybelline faves — tattoo studio liquid liner, build-a-brow and plump lifter gloss.”
Last year, the cosmetics brand starred Chilean Palestinian singer Elyanna, Egyptian actress Amira Adeeb and Kuwaiti content creator Khattafya in its campaign for Ramadan.
The three stars promoted the brand’s Lash Sensation Sky High mascara, the Fit Me Vitamin C tint and the Superstay lipstick.
Hadid has had a bustling start to the year.
Earlier this month, she graced the runways of Chanel and Miu Miu during Paris Fashion Week.
The catwalk sensation walked the Miu Miu runway in a white-collared, knee-length dress featuring a slit down the middle. The ensemble also featured a luxurious brown fur coat, complemented by a sleek leather purse and stylish pointy-toed leather shoes.
For the Chanel show, Hadid — a mother of one — stepped out in a black knit dress featuring a turtle-neck collar. The dress was designed with a diagonal cut from below the waist, adorned with sheer fabric. She also sported a thin black belt with a gold clasp.
In February, she stunned the Versace runway in Milan in a black sheer, collared dress featuring intricate button-down detailing and a daring thigh-high slit. Complementing her ensemble, she sported black latex gloves and accentuated her look with sharp eye makeup.
She started the year in January with the French label Jacquemus’s show in France. She wore a textured cream-colored coat featuring exaggerated curved sleeves. The coat was layered over a crisp, white-collared shirt.