India embraces ‘ethnic chic’

Updated 08 August 2012
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India embraces ‘ethnic chic’

Jumpsuits inspired by sari drapes, urban dresses in tribal cloth and digitally printed lehenga skirts — young designers have re-embraced their Indian heritage at Mumbai’s latest fashion week.
In a country that has struggled at times to find its way in the global sartorial stakes, a renewed pride in ethnic traditions has been sauntering down the catwalk.
“People have realized the whole point of Indian fashion is its Indian-ness,” said fashion journalist Sujata Assomull-Sippy.
“A few years ago it looked like stuff that came out of Bangkok, or copies of what we’d seen in Paris and Milan.” Western clothing may be ever more conspicuous in Indian cities but traditional clothing remains integral to a woman’s wardrobe. Top designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee is reported to make 45 percent of his 11 million dollar turnover from the sari, the much-loved drape considered both formal and flattering.
“Ethnic is chic,” declared the Hindustan Times in June, as India’s growing band of working women enjoy more sophisticated takes on traditional wear, now more readily available on the mass market.
For designers, providing a practical and affordable edge has become crucial as they shift their focus from the moneyed socialite to the middle-class young woman with her eye on global trends. At Lakme Fashion Week, which closed yesterday, Sidharta Aryan took ethnic Indian garments — the sari, the lehenga, the choli blouse — but created them from digitally printed silk, rather than reams of embroidery.
“There’s no point wearing 25 kilos on you to go to a wedding, you won’t be able to enjoy it,” the 30-year-old said. For his first show two seasons ago at Lakme, seen as a platform for India’s young talent, Aryan came up with a “hard rock” look, but his style has since become more infused with traditional Indian wear.
“We should try to reinvent it,” he said, pointing to the competition from international chains that now operate in India, such as Zara and Mango. Despite these rivals, the ethnic womenswear retail sector is still a big market opportunity, according to a recent study by management consultant firm Technopak Advisers. The group’s senior vice president, Amit Gugnani, expected an annual growth rate in the sector of 10 percent over the next decade.
The more comfortable salwar kameez — a long tunic paired with loose trousers — will see a higher growth rate than the sari, while the expanding Western wear market will also be “redefined” to include more Indian elements, he said.
Driving the growth in fashion are the country’s young population (the median age is 26), rising disposable incomes, and increasing “Eve power,” with 40 to 50 million working women aged 20 to 40 estimated to be part of urban India by 2016.

 


Art and the deal: market slump pushes galleries to the Gulf

Updated 16 February 2026
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Art and the deal: market slump pushes galleries to the Gulf

DOHA: With global sales mired in a slump, art dealers have turned to buyers in the oil-rich Gulf, where culture sector spending is on the rise.
Art Basel, which runs elite fairs in Miami, Hong Kong, Paris and Switzerland, held its Gulf debut in Qatar earlier this month.
“The second you land here, you see the ambition. It’s basically the future,” Andisheh Avini, a senior director at New York-based Gagosian Gallery, told AFP at the Doha fair.
“We see a lot of potential in this region and in Qatar,” Avini said, explaining it was “extremely important” for galleries to be exploring new consumer and collector bases.
“That’s why we’re here. And with patience and a long view, I think this is going to be a great hub,” he added.
A 2025 report on the global art market by Art Basel and the Swiss bank UBS showed sales fell across traditional centers in Europe and North America in the previous year.
Economic volatility and geopolitical tensions have weighed on demand, meaning global art market sales reached an estimated $57.5 billion in 2024 — a 12 percent year-on-year decline, the report said.
“The value of sales has ratcheted down for the past two years now, and I do think we’re at a bit of a turning point in terms of confidence and activity in the market,” Art Basel’s chief executive Noah Horowitz told AFP in Doha.

Prompted by a cooling global art market, particularly in North America and Europe, international art dealers are increasingly looking for buyers in the Gas-rich Gulf, where governments have also ramped up spending in the cultural sector. (Mahmud Hams / AFP) 
 


‘Time was right’

“Looking at developments in the global art world, we felt the time was right to enter the (Middle East, North Africa and South Asia) region,” he added.
Gulf states have poured billions into museums and cultural development to diversify their economies away from oil and gas and boost tourism.
In 2021, Abu Dhabi, home to the only foreign branch of the Louvre, announced a five-year plan for $6 billion in investments in its culture and creative industries.
Doha has established the National Museum of Qatar and the Museum of Islamic Art. The gas-rich country’s museums authority has in the past reported an annual budget of roughly $1 billion a year to spend on art.
Last year, Saudi Arabia announced that cultural investments in the Kingdom have exceeded $21.6 billion since 2016.
Gagosian had selected early works by Bulgarian artist Christo to feature at Art Basel Qatar.
Best known for large-scale works with his French partner Jeanne-Claude, like the wrapping of Paris’s Arc de Triomphe in 2021, Berlin’s Reichstag in 1995 and Pont Neuf in 1985, the Doha fair exhibited smaller wrapped sculptures.
Avini said the works had sparked curiosity from an “interesting mix” of individuals and potential buyers.
“Of course, you have the Qataris. You’re meeting other dealers, for instance, from Saudi and other parts of the region,” he said.
Among the Christo works were “Wrapped Oil Barrels,” created between 1958-61 shortly after the artist fled communist Bulgaria for Paris.

Art Basel, which runs elite fairs in Miami Beach, Hong Kong and Paris as well as Switzerland, held its Gulf debut earlier this month in gas-rich Qatar. (Mahmud Hams / AFP) 


‘Turn of the cycle’

The barrels — bound tightly with rope, their fabric skins stiffened and darkened with lacquer — inevitably recall the Gulf’s vast hydrocarbon wealth.
But Vladimir Yavachev, Christo’s nephew and now director for the artists’ estate following their deaths, said the barrels were not developed with “any connotation to the oil industry or criticism.”
“He really liked the proportion of this very simple, everyday object,” Yavachev said. “It was really about the aesthetics of the piece,” he added.
Horowitz said there had been an “evolution that we’ve seen through the growth of the market in Asia and here now in the Middle East.”
“With each turn of the cycle in our industry... we’ve seen new audiences come to the table and new content,” he added.
Hazem Harb, a Palestinian artist living between the UAE and Italy, praised Art Basel Qatar for its range of “international artists, so many concepts, so many subjects.”
Among Harb’s works at the fair were piles of old keys reminiscent of those carried during the “Nakba” in 1948, when around 760,000 Palestinians fled or were forced from their homes.
Next to them was a pile of newer keys — 3D-printed replicas of the key to Harb’s own apartment in Gaza, destroyed in the recent war.
In the Gulf and beyond, Harb said he thought there was a “revolution” happening in Arab art “from Cairo to Beirut to Baghdad to Kuwait... there is a new era, about culture, about art.”