DUBAI: For Amila Dewasurendra, cooking is an exercise in both precision and creativity.
Born in Sri Lanka and trained in Rome, Dewasurendra has worked in kitchens from Europe to the Middle East. After moving to the UAE in 2013 and completing his studies at ICCA, Dewasurendra joined COYA in Abu Dhabi, where he has now advanced to the position of head chef.
Drawing on his international background and appreciation for straightforward, ingredient-focused cuisine, he aims to introduce diners to dishes that reflect his diverse influences.
When you started out, what was the most common mistake you made?
I used to try and please everyone. Over time, I’ve learned to accept that everyone has different tastes. Now, I focus on perfecting my dishes for those who truly appreciate them. It’s about creating something memorable for those who savor every bite.
What’s your top tip for amateur chefs?
Keep things simple and follow your heart! Stick to recipes that use locally available ingredients for a delicious and stress-free cooking experience. Avoid complicating things with advanced equipment and long ingredient lists.
What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish?
Salt. It’s the most common — and the key — ingredient in cooking. A pinch of salt alone can enhance the taste and pull together all the flavors in a dish.
When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?
I’m usually more critical of the service than the food. It’s the first thing a guest experiences when they walk into a restaurant. For me, great service is just as important as great food.
What’s your favorite cuisine or dish to eat?
It’s definitely Italian cuisine. I love how it focuses on fresh ingredients like tomatoes, olives and basil. The flavors are mild but full of character.
What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home?
Spaghetti Aglio e Olio (spaghetti, olive oil, garlic and crushed red pepper flakes), simply because it’s quick and requires just a few ingredients. Plus, I love the flavors. It’s comfort food for me.
What customer behavior most annoys you?
I’m not a fan of requests that can greatly affect the recipe of a dish. Every dish is created a certain way to achieve its signature flavor and texture. When it’s altered, it loses its identity.
What’s your favorite dish to cook and why?
Pol Sambola — a coconut relish — is one of my favorites. It’s a traditional Sri Lankan side dish made with fresh coconut. It’s simple, versatile and reminds me of home. You can enjoy it with so many different mains.
What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right?
Maalu Ambul Thiyal. It’s a sour fish curry from the south of Sri Lanka. It’s tricky because the texture and flavor depends heavily on the quality of the fish, the exact balance of spices, and controlling the heat. Traditionally, it’s cooked over a woodfire, so temperature control is everything.
As a head chef, what are you like? Are you a disciplinarian? Or are you more laid back?
I’m really a bit of everything; it depends on the situation. I try to motivate my team, give them space to grow, and encourage them to explore. But I also step in when needed. Balance is key in the kitchen.
Chef Amila Dewasurendra’s tiger prawn tempura recipe
Tempura batter mix:
Ingredients:
Rice flour 250g
Corn flour 125g
Egg 1 pc
Baking soda 2g
Soda water 400ml
Salt to taste
Method:
In a mixing bowl mix everything well and keep it in the chiller.
Tempura mayo:
Ingredients:
Plain mayo 400g
Pickled gherkin chopped 100g
Sesame oil 6g
Japanese seaweed powder 10g
Dijon mustard 35g
Saffron 2 g
Method:
When it comes to serving coated prawns in batter, fry them in 180°C oil for 4 minutes (timing will depend on the sizes of the prawns).
Then remove them from the fryer and put them in a bowl, mixing them with Tempura mayo.
Serve them with Tempura mayo on top or on the side.
To your taste, squeeze some lime on top.
