Bangladesh garment industry short on cotton as floods worsen protest backlog

Women work in a garment factory, as factories reopened after the government has eased the restrictions amid concerns over the COVID-19 outbreak in Dhaka, Bangladesh, on May 3, 2020. (REUTERS)
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Updated 30 August 2024
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Bangladesh garment industry short on cotton as floods worsen protest backlog

  • Weather authorities say flood conditions could persist if the monsoon rains continued
  • Some cotton shipments could get diverted to India, Pakistan and Vietnam, analysts say

Garment factories in Bangladesh, one of the world’s biggest clothing production hubs, are struggling to complete orders on time as flooding disrupts their cotton supplies — exacerbating a backlog caused by recent political turmoil.

Bangladesh is a leading global cotton importer due to the size of its textile and garment industry, but the devastating floods mean few trucks and trains have been able to bring supplies to factories from Chittagong port over the last week, industry officials and analysts said.

The disruption, on top of the unrest and protests that led to factory closures earlier this month, have caused garment production to fall by 50 percent, said Mohammad Hatem, president of the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association.

“The industry is now under immense pressure to meet deadlines, and without a swift resolution, the supply chain could deteriorate even further,” Hatem said.
Bangladesh was ranked as the third-largest exporter of clothing in the world last year, after China and the European Union, according to the World Trade Organization, exporting $38.4 billion worth of clothes in 2023.

At the clothing factory she runs in the capital, Dhaka, Rubana Huq is counting the cost of lost production.

“Even for a moderate-sized company like ours, which makes 50,000 shirts a day and if the price of one single shirt is $5, there was $250,000 of production loss,” said Huq, a former president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA).

She said some garment plants were slowing resuming production, but estimated that complete recovery “would be at least six months away,” warning that Bangladeshi manufacturers could lose 10 percent-15 percent of business to other countries.

Bangladesh’s readymade garments industry, which supplies many of the world’s best-known fashion brands, accounts for more than 80 percent of the country’s total export earnings.

Buyers are adopting a cautious approach and could potentially delay new orders, said Shahidullah Azim, a director of the BGMEA industry group.

“The longer this uncertainty persists, the more challenging it becomes for us to maintain the momentum we have built,” he told Reuters.

The Bangladesh Meteorological Department said flood conditions could persist if the monsoon rains continued, as water levels were receding very slowly.

Some cotton shipments could get diverted to India, Pakistan and Vietnam, commodity analysts said.

“We are already hearing and seeing some cotton for prompt delivery wanted by Pakistan and Vietnam,” said Louis Barbera, partner and analyst at VLM Commodities based in New Jersey.

New orders shifted from Bangladesh could also be accommodated in southern India, said Atul Ganatra, president of the Cotton Association of India.

Even before the floods and political unrest, the Bangladeshi garment industry was grappling with power shortages that remain a problem, said Fazlee Shamim Ehsan, vice president at the country’s knitwear manufacturers and exporters association.

“Energy shortages continue to hamper our operations,” he said.


Spain urges EU to create joint army amid Greenland dispute

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Spain urges EU to create joint army amid Greenland dispute

  • EU should integrate defense industry and assemble coalition of the willing, Spain foreign minister says
  • Joint EU military more efficient than separate national forces, Albares says

ZURICH: Spain is urging the EU to move toward creating a joint army for the bloc as a deterrence measure, Spain’s Foreign Minister Jose Manuel Albares said in comments to Reuters on Wednesday ahead of a day of meetings in Davos.
The region should focus first on bringing together its tangible assets to properly integrate ‌its defense ‌industry, and then mobilizing a coalition of ‌the ⁠willing, ​the foreign ‌minister said.
The concern over whether European citizens would be willing to assemble militarily is a “legitimate debate”, but the chance of assembling a critical mass was higher as a bloc than on a national level, Albares said, adding: “A joint effort would be more efficient than 27 separate national armies.”
The comments come ahead of an emergency meeting between EU leaders later on Thursday ⁠in Brussels to coordinate a joint response to US President Trump’s threats to buy ‌or annex Greenland. A Council spokesperson confirmed late ‍on Wednesday the meeting will still ‍take place despite Trump’s announcement on social media that he and ‍NATO Secretary General Mark Rutte had “formed the framework of a deal”.
Albares, speaking after a meeting in Delhi on Wednesday with his Indian counterpart Subrahmanyam Jaishankar which included talks on deeper defense ties, stressed that the intention of such ​an army was not to replace NATO, underscoring the importance of the transatlantic alliance.
“But we need to demonstrate that ⁠Europe is not a place that will let itself be coerced militarily or economically,” Albares said.
His position remained unchanged despite Trump rowing back on his Greenland threats after speaking to Rutte, a senior foreign official said, adding that Spain was “glad a pathway for dialogue had been opened within the NATO framework, if that pathway is confirmed.”
The concept of integrating national military forces into a supranational European army was first proposed in 1951 to counter the Soviet Union and ensure German rearmament did not threaten its neighbors, but was voted down by France’s parliament in 1954.
“The idea of ‌European defense was part of the origin of the EU. It is up to my generation to finish this task,” Albares said.