In Pakistan’s Sindh, a historic watchtower whispers tales of Umayyad conquests

The image taken on July 19, 2024, shows the historic Muhammad Bin Qasim Watchtower in the barely populated town of Pir Patho on the coast of Pakistan’s southern Sindh province. (AN photo)
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Updated 25 July 2024
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In Pakistan’s Sindh, a historic watchtower whispers tales of Umayyad conquests

  • Located in the barely populated Pir Patho town, the structure is now called Muhammad Bin Qasim Watchtower
  • Ships arriving from different ports took clearance from the watchtower before continuing to travel upstream

PIR PATHO, Thatta: Around a thirty-minute drive from the southern Pakistani city of Thatta stands a stone watchtower that, according to some historians, was used by Arab General Muhammad Bin Qasim during the Umayyad campaigns in India.

No wonder then that the building in the tiny, barely populated town of Pir Patho on the coast of Pakistan’s southern Sindh province has come to be popularly called the Muhammad Bin Qasim Watchtower, its weathered stone structure whispering tales of the region’s Arab past.

Qasim led the conquest of Sindh from 708 to 711 and established Islamic rule throughout the region, serving as governor of Sindh from 712 until his death in 715. Some historians say the watchtower was used for navigation by ships during Arab rule of Sindh. Others says it was mostly used to look out at small cargo-laden ships that arrived from the ancient Indian port of Debal, among others, before carrying on with their journeys up north along the Indus River.

“This used to be a watchtower for ships that would pass by,” said Sarfaraz Nawaz, an official at the Sindh Culture Department. “It is named after Muhammad bin Qasim and is believed to have been built in that era.”




Sarfaraz Nawaz, an official at the Sindh Culture Department, is pictured outside the historic Muhammad Bin Qasim Watchtower in the barely populated town of Pir Patho on the coast of Pakistan’s southern Sindh province. (AN photo)

Historian Dr. Muhammad Ali Manjhi said there was evidence that ships arriving from Debal and other ports would require clearance from here to continue traveling upstream, though he informed the watchtower came to be named after Qasim only after the creation of Pakistan in 1947.

“They did not originally call it Muhammad bin Qasim Tower,” Manjhi told Arab News. “They used to call it the Pir Patho Tower.”

The town of Pir Patho is home to several other archaeological sites, including a Mughal-era mosque, old graveyards and the shrine of Sufi saint Sakhi Jamil Shah Dataar. The area is also known for a major earthquake in the 17th century, in which 50,000 people are believed to have perished, Nawaz said.

A “huge city” once existed at the site of Pir Patho, which was devasted when the Indus River changed its course, Nawaz said, while deadly floods in 2010 once again hit Pir Patho and damaged the historic watchtower.

The Sindh Endowment Fund Trust in 2016 restored the 45-feet-tall tower, which has a circumference of around 65 feet, to its former glory, using kiln-baked bricks and stones.

Nawaz mentioned that although it is unknown who built the tower, it remains a significant landmark.

“Pir Patho was a very important city because of its strategic location. Similarly, the watchtower played a crucial role in guiding ships arriving from the sea for their northward journey,” he said.


Too warm to freeze: Climate shift threatens ice hockey in Pakistan’s Hunza Valley

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Too warm to freeze: Climate shift threatens ice hockey in Pakistan’s Hunza Valley

  • Rising temperatures, falling snowfall disrupt community-run tournament dependent on natural ice
  • Scientists report shorter snow seasons across Hindu Kush-Himalayan region as climate risks grow

HUNZA, Pakistan: Aleena Gul used to watch the pool beside her home in Pakistan’s Hunza Valley freeze solid each winter, transforming it into a makeshift ice hockey rink.

This year, it barely froze at all.

“If we see, there’s a big difference between 2018 and now in 2026,” said Gul, a local player whose family has hosted the community tournament for eight seasons.

“Winter used to begin in November and everything would freeze, . It’s January now and the ice still hasn’t frozen properly,” said Gul, a local player whose family has hosted the community tournament for eight seasons.

The change has disrupted a small but growing winter sports tradition in the mountainous region near the Chinese border, where residents say colder, longer winters once provided reliable natural ice.

Scientists studying the wider Hindu Kush-Himalayan region have reported fewer extreme cold events and shorter snow seasons, with snowfall increasingly failing to settle. Weather data for Hunza shows winter precipitation down by about 30 percent since the late 2010s, with some recent winters two to three degrees Celsius warmer.

That is a challenge for a region reliant on visitors, where winter tourism depends heavily on snowfall and freezing temperatures.

The community-run ice hockey tournament in Hunza depends entirely on natural ice. When Gul’s pool failed to freeze properly this year, organizers scrambled to find an alternative venue nearly two hours north, in a town close to the Chinese border.

Even there, conditions were difficult.

“I expected better ice conditions, but when I saw the rink I felt a bit sad. Many of our players fell. The surface had too many bumps and wasn’t strong,” said Yahya Karim, another player.

Of three matches scheduled on the first day, only one went ahead.

“Today, we got ready at almost around 9 o’clock. When we got called for the match, we saw that the ice was not in a good condition. So, all these things are very unexpected for us. And this is a side effect of climate change,” Gul said.

Naseer Uddin, co-founder of the youth organization SCARF, said volunteers had worked for about a week preparing the arena.

“We worked on this arena for about a week. We had planned [a match] here. Then, suddenly, when the sun came out today, so we had to switch suddenly because the ice in this arena has been spoiled,” he said.

Sadiq Saleem, president of the Altit Town Management Society, said residents were witnessing a noticeable change.

“We are witnessing a sudden shift in Hunza’s weather pattern, [both] in the snowfall and freezing [temperature] here. We are seeing a big shift in the intensity of winter here,” he said.

The girls’ match eventually went ahead, and Gul’s team emerged victorious. But the uncertainty over ice conditions has left many wondering how long the tradition can survive.

Climate change has become a growing concern for Pakistan, which contributes less than 1 percent of global greenhouse gas emissions yet is frequently ranked among the countries most vulnerable to global warming.

This week, Pakistan’s National Disaster Management Authority warned of an elevated risk of glacial lake outburst floods in the north as rising temperatures threaten to accelerate snow and glacier melt. Seasonal forecasts point to higher-than-normal temperatures and possible early heatwave conditions in Gilgit-Baltistan and upper Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, regions that include Hunza.

For now, players in the valley are making do with what winter brings. But as temperatures rise, even a simple backyard rink is no longer guaranteed.