Manal AlDowayan on her work for the Venice Biennale 

The Saudi pavilion’s theme at Venice this year is “Shifting Sands—A Battle Song.” (Supplied)
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Updated 19 April 2024
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Manal AlDowayan on her work for the Venice Biennale 

  • The acclaimed artist is representing Saudi Arabia at this year’s ‘Olympics of the art world’ 

DUBAI: The acclaimed Saudi artist Manal AlDowayan is on a roll. Earlier this year, she opened two well-received exhibitions in AlUla, where she is also working on an ambitious land art commission for the upcoming Wadi AlFann cultural destination. And this week, AlDowayan will represent her country at the 60th iteration of the Venice Biennale — dubbed “the Olympics of the art world,” consisting as it does of multiple national pavilions — which runs until Nov. 24. She will be presenting what she describes as “two of my most major works in my career at this point.” 

AlDowayan has participated at Venice before. In 2009, she showed her work in an onsite exhibition organized by the Saudi art-focused initiative Edge of Arabia, alongside fellow Saudi artists including Maha Malluh and Ahmed Mater.  




AlDowayan will represent her country at the 60th iteration of the Venice Biennale. (Supplied)

“I’ve been going to Venice for about 12 years,” AlDowayan tells Arab News. “The first time I showed there, I knew in my heart that I would be coming back to represent Saudi Arabia; I would do everything in my power to come to this moment and prepare myself. It’s something very important for an artist: to participate in the Venice Biennale.” 

It was only last August that she was visited in her UK studio by Dina Amin, the CEO of the Visual Arts Commission, and cultural advisor Abdullah Al-Turki, and told she had been selected to represent the Kingdom in 2024.  

“My first thoughts were: ‘There’s no time,’” she says with a laugh. “To come up with a concept, complete the research, execute the concept, build it, and install it, is really complex. But my team, my studios, and I were ready. I already knew what I wanted to present, and within one week I had put together my proposal and it was approved. The artwork is a continuation of my language, my research and my forms that I work with.”




Participatory workshops for 'Shifting Sands - A Battle Song' by Manal AlDowayan. (Supplied)

The Saudi pavilion’s theme at Venice this year is “Shifting Sands—A Battle Song.” It is curated by a trio of female art experts, Jessica Cerasi, Maya El-Khalil, and Shadin AlBulaihed. In AlDowayan’s sound-meets-sculpture installation, she brings together much of what she has explored in her practice over the past two decades — community engagement, participatory art, media (mis)representation, and the visibility, or lack of it, of women in Saudi culture. The work is also about the momentous changes taking place in the Kingdom today, and her response to them.  

The work comprises two key parts: sound and soft sculptures. Saudi and Arab women’s voices are front and center; AlDowayan allowing them to reclaim their narrative, which she believes has consistently been misrepresented.  

“If you’re always told that you’re oppressed, repressed, depressed… you sort of lose the sense of yourself,” she adds. “And this artwork talks about this sort of constant hounding by Western media — and local media — speaking about the Arab woman; her body, her space, the rules of her behavior, and how she should exist in the public space.” 




Manal AlDowayan's 'Shifting Sands - A Battle Song.' (Supplied)

For this section, AlDowayan put out an open call inviting women to take part in workshops. They proved very popular, attended by all ages, professions and backgrounds.  

“In Riyadh, within three hours, 350 women registered,” she says. “We had to block the registration link because I don’t know how to control 350 women. I’m just one.” In the sessions, participants reacted to negative press headlines and media clippings, and AlDowayan recorded those reactions.  

“I always say that people are trying to define what a Saudi woman is,” explains AlDowayan. “We researched thousands and thousands of articles in my studios, in seven languages, and there were some very dark things written. I showed the women these articles and said, ‘Do you really feel these articles are really speaking your truth?’”  

She also asked them to write and/or draw their own stories. Examples included: “Two women equal one man.” “Thanks love, we don’t want to be saved.” And “Surrendering doesn’t look good on us, for we are wars.”  




Detail from Manal AlDowayan's 'Shifting Sands - A Battle Song.' (Supplied)

A selection of the written quotes were then read out loud by participants. While reading, they had headphones on, listening to, and harmonizing with, the eerie humming sounds made by sand dunes, which AlDowayan had previously recorded.  

“It was beautiful and meditative. You will see women with their eyes closed, their arms stretched out. It was a very spiritual moment,” AlDowayan recalls. The whole ‘performance’ was inspired by ‘Dahha,’ a ritual in which warriors celebrated victory with music and dance.  

Inside the pavilion, where the women’s recordings play, stand three soft black-and-brown sculptures, full of folds, shaped like the sand crystals known as desert roses — a recurring motif in AlDowayan’s work.  

“The rose is a very weak and delicate (thing),” she says. “But this crystal is born in extreme circumstances. First, it needs to be pouring rain, then there needs to be high temperatures and that’s how it crystalizes. I feel like I’ve adopted this form as a body and I deal with it like skin.”  

The folds of the enlarged sculptures are imprinted with “a cacophony of what Western media has written: the veil, repressed, oppressed, women, sexuality… All the words that always float over our heads,” says AlDowayan. They also include some of the women’s positive messages, as well as their drawings.  

“While you’re taking this journey you will hear the sound, and sound is sculptural in my opinion: It occupies but you can’t see it,” she says. “I feel the invisibility of sound, and its ‘presence’ is like the Arab woman. She’s strong, she’s there; it’s undeniable. Just because you don’t see her, it doesn’t mean she doesn’t exist.” 

As for how visitors will react to her work, AlDowayan hopes to provoke conversations.  

“I want questions. I want extreme emotions. They can hate it, they can love it, they can cry. But, I can’t do neutral,” she says. “Neutral means I did not succeed. If they have questions, then I’ve succeeded. If they talk about it after one day, I’ve succeeded.” 


Gail’s Bakery co-founder dismisses claims of Israeli ownership as ‘ridiculous’

Updated 31 August 2024
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Gail’s Bakery co-founder dismisses claims of Israeli ownership as ‘ridiculous’

DUBAI: The co-founder and chief executive of London’s Gail's Bakery, Tom Molnar, has addressed claims that the bakery is Israel-owned and opposed to the ceasefire, calling these allegations “ridiculous.”

In an interview with The Times, Molnar said: “Gail’s proudly has Jewish roots and there’s plenty of stuff out there celebrating our heritage and history, but it’s not true it’s Israel-owned.

“There’s some just crazy stuff on the web thinking we are funding Israel, which is just completely ridiculous. We’re a wholly UK-based business, paying UK taxes, it’s just ludicrous and I think it needs to be called out,” Molnar added.

The backlash against the bakery has been growing over the past month, fueled by posts like one from author Salma Ibrahim on X, who wrote: “Guys, Gail’s is an Israeli company. Another one to boycott along with Starbucks and Pret.” Her post garnered over 3,700 shares and likes, reaching nearly 300,000 people.


Loli Bahia showcases bold style in new campaign

Updated 31 August 2024
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Loli Bahia showcases bold style in new campaign

DUBAI: French Algerian model Loli Bahia has added another high-profile campaign to her portfolio, this time joining Swedish fashion brand H&M’s latest Autumn/ Winter 2024 collection.

In the first campaign image, Bahia, who is signed to Women Management Paris, was seen wearing a flowing black ensemble that includes a sheer, oversized top paired with wide-leg trousers. The outfit featured ruffled hems and a high neckline and was accompanied by a large black bag.

The second image shows the catwalk star in a crisp white blouse with structured, exaggerated sleeves, paired with a high-waisted black leather skirt detailed with silver studs.

In the first campaign image, Bahia was seen wearing a flowing black ensemble that includes a sheer, oversized top paired with wide-leg trousers. (Supplied)

In another shot, she was pictured in an oversized dark fur coat layered over wide-leg pants.

The campaign also features British singer Charli XCX, Venezuelan musician Arca, British model Lila Moss, American skateboarder and artist Sage Elsesser, and British musician Sega Bodega.

The latest collection embraces a mid-century aesthetic, evident in its suiting with boxy jackets and micro skirts. 

In another shot, she was pictured in an oversized dark fur coat layered over wide-leg pants. (Supplied)

The new drop features vintage-style opulence, with beading and studs adorning knitwear, heirloom-style mesh dresses, as well as leather and suede pieces.

The knitwear selection includes skirt suits in stretch wool, along with matching vests and shorts that are set to become wardrobe essentials.

The color palette spans a range of browns, from caramel to deep mahogany, with oxblood and green adding to the archival vibe. Black and white are used as accent tones. 

Accessories in the collection include heeled pumps with statement round toes, studded loafers, and furry slip-ons. The bags are sleek and directional, while the jewelry ranges from minimal and angular to off-beat and earthy.

The catwalk star also wore a crisp white blouse with structured, exaggerated sleeves, paired with a high-waisted black leather skirt detailed with silver studs. (Supplied)

“This collection is full of many special inspirations and quality materials. The leather, the knits, the sparkly separates – together the pieces showcase the strength of H&M’s fashion ability. It’s all about truly great clothes: real wardrobe icons. The campaign lets the fashion shine,” said Eliana Masgalos, the womenswear design director at H&M. 

Meanwhile, Bahia is one of the most in-demand models in the industry, becoming a runway fixture in just a few months after a breakthrough Spring 2022 fashion season, where she walked in 65 shows.

She has walked for a host of prestigious labels, including Chanel, Tory Burch, Givenchy, Lanvin, Schiaparelli and Valentino. Bahia also fronted campaigns for Saint Laurent, Tod’s, Isabel Marant, Courreges and Max Mara in addition to starring on the cover of Vogue Italia.


Elyanna joins Coldplay on stage in Dublin

Updated 31 August 2024
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Elyanna joins Coldplay on stage in Dublin

DUBAI: Palestinian Chilean singer Elyanna joined Coldplay on stage this week during their concert in Dublin to perform their recently released song “We Pray.”

She performed alongside rapper Little Simz, Nigerian singer Burna Boy and Argentine singer Tini, who are also featured on the track.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Coldplay (@coldplay)

“I’m still in awe of last night! Sharing this moment with all these amazing artists on @coldplay’s stage felt so wholesome,” she wrote to her 1.7 million followers on Instagram. “I sang ‘We Pray’ in Arabic, I sang for hope and most importantly for my hometown Palestine.”


Italy showcases 25 brands at Dubai Fashion Week’s ‘La Moda Italiana’ initiative

Updated 31 August 2024
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Italy showcases 25 brands at Dubai Fashion Week’s ‘La Moda Italiana’ initiative

DUBAI: Dubai Fashion Week is gearing up for its Spring/Summer 2025 showcase, with international labels set to hit the runway from Sept. 1-5.

This year, Italy will make a significant appearance at DFW with the launch of “La Moda Italiana: Dubai Edition,” a dedicated initiative introduced by the Italian Trade Agency in collaboration with the Arab Fashion Council and Confindustria Moda. 

The initiative will feature 25 Italian brands across various product categories, including clothing, textiles, footwear, leather goods and eyewear. These brands will showcase the pinnacle of Made in Italy craftsmanship in Dubai Design District. 

Valerio Soldani, the Italian trade commissioner, told Arab News that he believes this initiative will strengthen Italy’s relationship with the UAE, particularly in the fashion sector.

“Our trade exchange has been growing by double digits in recent years when it comes to the four pillars of Made in Italy: factory, fashion, food and furniture,” he said. “We think that fashion is also a good way to provide opportunities for Italian and UAE designers to collaborate, create new things, and blend cultures, industries and ideas.”

He believes this collaboration could happen through initiatives such as agreements with local retailers and partnerships between Italian companies and local designers to boost sales in the online channels across the Gulf Cooperation Council region. 

“We have noticed that our fashion exports have been growing consistently in the last five years. So we thought — with our headquarters — to do something big, to have a big splash into the UAE market. And we decided to team up with the Arab fashion Council and Confindustria Moda to showcase Italian excellence, quality and innovation when it comes to fashion.” 

The 25 brands, Soldani said, were carefully selected by the involved parties. “They provided an opportunity for many Italian companies to apply by submitting their lookbooks and Instagram accounts. Our partners at the Arab Fashion Council then chose a selection of 25 brands that best represent and align with the UAE’s tastes and trends in fashion.”

He said this provides Italian fashion startups with the opportunity to enter the GCC market.

Reflecting on the essence of Italian fashion, Soldani quoted Giorgio Armani: “Elegance is not about being noticed; it is about being remembered.”

He added: “I think that Italy is renowned and remembered all over the world because of quality, innovation, and sustainability, which is a very big topic right now for young designers, for customers all around the world, and it resonates with the efforts of the UAE in delivering cutting-edge solutions and driving innovation in these key areas.” 


REVIEW: Jeff Goldblum shines as Zeus in modern-day Greek comedy ‘Kaos’

Updated 30 August 2024
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REVIEW: Jeff Goldblum shines as Zeus in modern-day Greek comedy ‘Kaos’

DUBAI: Although “Kaos” is steeped in the world of ancient Greek myth, its story of an aging, vain, thin-skinned despot desperate to be worshipped and prone to lash out indiscriminately in rage if he feels slighted is, sadly, very of-the-moment.

In this case, that despot is Zeus (played beautifully by Jeff Goldblum), king of the deities, who lives on Mount Olympus with his wife (who’s also his sister — that’s the ancient Greeks for you) Hera (a regal and weary-of-cleaning-up-Zeus’-messes Janet McTeer).

“Kaos” is set in an alternative modern world where pantheism is still the prominent religion, and where the deities — and other figures from Greek mythology — move among humans. We jump into the action on the holy day of Olympia, when humans celebrate Zeus (via, among other ways, human sacrifice of a willing volunteer). A new monument to him is due to be unveiled, but when it is, it has been vandalized by a gang of Trojans. Coupled with the discovery of a new wrinkle on his forehead, this is enough to send Zeus spiraling, and he decides that an old prophecy about the end of his reign must be coming true — leading to ever-increasing paranoia and bad choices.

The catch is, at least according to the narrator, Prometheus (whom Zeus considers his closest friend, despite condemning him to an eternity chained to a rock while an eagle pecks at his liver), the prophecy is coming true. Or, at least, a series of events that will have the same effect is in motion.

Ostensibly, “Kaos” is a comedy. And there are certainly some very funny moments. But it’s also much deeper than that. In the first two episodes alone there are ruminations about the loneliness of falling out of love with your partner, gender politics, and the potential damage of parental expectations; (off-camera) infanticide; a magnificent scene of a young couple wordlessly pleading with The Fates to be allowed to enter the Underworld and try to recover their deceased son; and many takes on the danger of power. In other words, there’s a lot to sink your teeth into. And that’s without mentioning all the great portrayals of other figures from Greek myth (including Orpheus, Dionysus, Hades, Medusa, and Cassandra).

Show creator Charlie Covell has crafted something very special with “Kaos.” It’s an intelligent, compelling, very funny, and deeply moving show that richly rewards — and deserves — your attention.