At London Fashion Week, Pakistani clothing label Rastah aims to change ‘narrative’ about Pakistan

This handout picture, released by Pakistani fashion label Rastah on January 29, 2023, features the latest collection "inspired by concepts of conflict, desire and the human condition" that will be showcased at the London Fashion Week. (Photo courtesy: Instagram/ Rastah Official)
Short Url
Updated 11 February 2023
Follow

At London Fashion Week, Pakistani clothing label Rastah aims to change ‘narrative’ about Pakistan

  • The brand will showcase its 2023 Spring/Summer collection at London Fashion Week on Feb 17-21
  • Selling entirely online, Rastah has had numerous physical pop-ups in London and New York as well

KARACHI: As Pakistani clothing label Rastah heads to the London Fashion Week 2023, its co-founders say that it is time for the “narrative” about Pakistan to change on the world fashion landscape.

Rastah, a premier South Asian artisanal urban wear brand, aims to decontextualize and reinterpret regional heritage and artisanship by bringing together western silhouettes and traditional eastern motifs, contemporary art and Mughal miniature, and stories of exodus.

The Pakistani label, which launched in 2018 with a few hoodies after the co-founders saw a gap in this segment, follows an online business-to-consumer (B2C) model, but has had numerous physical pop-ups in London and New York as well.

Rastah is going to showcase its products in the London Fashion Week 2023 on Feb 17-21 after a “rigorous” application process, according to the brand’s creators. The label will be showcasing its merchandise at 8:30-11:30pm London time on February 17.

For so long, Rastah co-founder Ismail Ahmad says, the world has looked at Pakistan and South Asia as a “mere cog in the global supply chain, however, we’re much more than that” as some of the best artisanal practices have either originated or been perfected in South Asia.

“The effects of colonialism have been drastic. Many a time, western designers or brands take inspiration from the east without giving due credit,” Ahmad told Arab News on Saturday.

“It’s time we changed that narrative and [told] our own stories through our own lens. Through this approach, Pakistan can [hopefully] become a force in the global fashion landscape.”




This handout picture, released by Pakistani fashion label Rastah on January 29, 2023, features the latest collection "inspired by concepts of conflict, desire and the human condition" that will be showcased at the London Fashion Week. (Photo courtesy: Instagram/ Rastah Official)

Zain Ahmad, the label’s creative director, said they will be taking guests on a “narrative exploration” of their 2023 Spring/Summer Collection, titled Volume IX, at the London Fashion Week.

“The concept behind the collection is deeply personal and revolves around feelings of desire and conflict. How often we let ourselves be consumed by the material world, knowing full well that it serves little to no purpose, yet we carry on with this pursuit,” he told Arab News.

“This is apparent in the use of chaotic prints and embroideries that are juxtaposed among each other.”

The brand brought to life the “unique,” lived experiences of the creative director and his design team as South Asians in a vastly globalized world, according to Zain. It was an attempt to carve their own identity whilst staying true to their heritage and roots.

“Having lived in various parts of the world, identity has always been a difficult question to answer, since the home has always been Pakistan,” he shared.

Ahmad said Rastah had already curated a market abroad and more than half of the brand’s sales came from the global north, including the United States, the United Kingdom and Canada.

“These markets are also rapidly growing, and the interesting thing is that it’s not just South Asians who are buying. This is so important in regard to Rastah’s chances of successfully scaling further,” he said.

The co-founder said his team always wondered if it was possible to buy clothes that weren’t entirely traditional, but had their roots in tradition, something that could be worn and appreciated in cities like New York and London. Since then, Ahmad said, the brand had evolved with a greater focus on luxury and an emphasis on design sensibility.

“I really don’t even consider ourselves a streetwear brand per se anymore given that our designs are a lot more elevated and technical now, even though those elements of streetwear still exist,” he said.

For the upcoming showcase in London, Zain said, the brand’s goal was to educate attendees on the various artisanal techniques they utilize and walk them through their process, which at times takes up to 10 days for a single piece.

The clothing label is also having a pop-up shop in London on Feb 17-21 after over three years, through which they aim to “engage” and show love to their community.


The Weeknd donates $2 million for humanitarian aid in Gaza 

Updated 17 min 18 sec ago
Follow

The Weeknd donates $2 million for humanitarian aid in Gaza 

DUBAI: Canadian singer The Weeknd has pledged to donate another $2 million to help feed families in Gaza, the United Nations’s World Food Programme reported. 

The donation comes from the star’s XO Humanitarian Fund, which helps combat global hunger. 

“This support will provide over 1,500 metric tons of fortified wheat flour, which can make over 18 million loaves of bread that can help feed more than 157,000 Palestinians for one month,” said WFP.

In December, the multi-platinum global recording artist, whose given name is Abel Tesfaye, donated $2.5 million to WFP from the fund, which he established in partnership with World Food Program USA. That equated to 4 million emergency meals, funding 820 tons of food parcels that could feed more than 173,000 Palestinians for two weeks. 

Tesfaye, who was appointed a Goodwill Ambassador in October 2021, is an active supporter of WFP’s global hunger-relief mission. He, his partners and his fans have raised $6.5 million to date for the XO fund.

In total he has directed $4.5 million toward operations in Gaza and has sent $2 million to support WFP’s emergency food assistance for women and children in Ethiopia. 


Jordan’s Princess Rajwa turns heads with maternity fashion statement

Updated 02 May 2024
Follow

Jordan’s Princess Rajwa turns heads with maternity fashion statement

DUBAI: Princess Rajwa Al-Hussein of Jordan was spotted shopping in Amman on Wednesday, her growing baby bump proudly on show.

The princess, who is from Saudi Arabia, wore a blue denim maternity jumpsuit from the Tencel Denim Maternity range by British label Seraphine.

She completed her look with white sneakers and accessorized with a Bottega Veneta Mini Cabat Mini leather tote bag.

Princess Rajwa, the wife of Crown Prince Hussein bin Abdullah II, celebrated her birthday last week. The crown prince took to social media to send her birthday greetings as an official portrait of the princess was unveiled.

“May God continue to bless and nurture the bond between us. Happy Birthday Rajwa,” he wrote on Instagram, sharing a new photo of the couple.

The new official portrait of Princess Rajwa shows the princess wearing a blue outfit from French label Rabanne against a matching blue background.

Earlier this month it was announced that the royal couple, who married in June last year, were expecting their first baby this summer.


Action! Saudi Film Festival returns for 10th edition

Updated 02 May 2024
Follow

Action! Saudi Film Festival returns for 10th edition

  • Everything you need to know about Ithra’s celebration of cinema 

DHAHRAN: The 10th Saudi Film Festival will begin May 2 at the King Abdulaziz Center for World Culture (Ithra) in Dhahran.  

This year’s eight-day event — organized by the Cinema Society in partnership with Ithra and with support from the Ministry of Culture — will feature 76 film screenings and 53 titles vying for 36 awards. The red carpet will be rolled out on both opening and closing nights, with filmmakers, actors and film buffs in attendance. There will be workshops and book signings and, of course, the opportunity for filmmakers from the Kingdom and the wider region to come together. 

The festival will open with “Underground,” a feature-length documentary by Saudi director Abdulrahman Sandokji about the Kingdom’s music industry. (Supplied)

The festival will open with “Underground,” a feature-length documentary by Saudi director Abdulrahman Sandokji about the Kingdom’s music industry. 

Festival director Ahmed Al-Mulla said at a press conference: “This event is fast developing into a must-attend festival across the GCC film community. This year’s 10th edition is shaping up to be the biggest and best yet.” 

“We have come a long way over the past decade and are pleased to see Saudi Film Festival’s importance and popularity across the region’s film community growing each passing year,” added SFF vice president, Mansour Al-Badran. “(It) has become a portal for cultural exchange and exploration, providing an avenue for cultural openness for the Kingdom and building bridges beyond borders for new programs and experiences.” 

Syrian filmmaker Mohammad Malas will be honored at this year’s Saudi Film Festival. (AFP)

The festival’s colorful history — back to its debut in 2008 — will be on display at the Cinema Society’s “Saudi Encyclopedia of Cinema,” which includes 20 books covering all aspects of film.  

This year’s edition has two main themes: Indian cinema and sci-fi films. The Spotlight on Indian Cinema program will explore India’s rich film industry beyond Bollywood and showcase Indian indie movies, which rarely get the chance to run in the Gulf region. Practical workshops and cultural seminars will be included for both the main themes, as well as programming designed especially for children.  

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by (@saudifilmfestival)

The Plaza at Ithra will bring the future to the present by providing a Virtual Production Experience (NeoCyb) experience. Combining live-action film with digital environments or elements in real-time, virtual production uses advanced technologies such as real-time rendering engines and motion-capture to create immersive virtual environments that performers can interact with, enabling filmmakers to visualize and capture scenes with complex visual effects more efficiently and cost-effectively, by reducing the need for extensive post-production work. 

And speaking of production, the festival also includes a production market where people can meet up to work towards a common goal: making more movies. Filmmakers, producers, funders — and those seeking funding — will be present. The market is designed, the organizers say “to enhance the film industry in Saudi Arabia by encouraging collaboration between artists, producers, and investors in the cinema industry.” 

A total of 53 features, shorts and documentaries, nominated by the festival’s technical committee, will compete for 36 prizes at this year’s SFF. They will be displayed at the festival in three categories: the Film Competition, the Unexecuted Screenplay Competition, and the Production Market Projects Competition.  

There will also be a new category of prizes up for grabs: The Golden Palm, which will be presented to the best Saudi documentary about the environment as well as a second-place award for the best animated short film on the topic. 

On the sidelines of all the high-profile screenings, the festival also includes a myriad of activities for film professionals, including 10 training workshops, two of which will focus on production market participants and short- and long-scenario development. There will also be a symposium and a total of 13 masterclasses covering a wide range of topics. More details are available on Ithra’s website. 

SFF will also continue to celebrate the achievements of film pioneers in the Kingdom and the Gulf region. This year, the festival will honor Saudi actor Abdulmohsen Al-Nemer, who hails from nearby Al-Ahsa.  

Al-Nemer has starred in numerous films over his decades-long career, including “The Sun” (1990), “Shadows of Silence” (2006), “Thobe: The Wedding” (2016) and “Long Road” (2022). 

He also starred in last year’s award-winning “Hajjan,” an Ithra Film Production that premiered at the 2023 Toronto International Film Festival and recently took home three awards at the Gulf Film Festival including Best Feature, Best Actor and Best Cinematography. 

The festival will also honor Syrian director, Mohammad Malas, whose work has often been banned in his homeland but is recognized as one of his country’s leading auteurs. His documentary about Palestinian refugee camps in Lebanon, shot in the Eighties, “Al-Manam” was awarded first prize at the first International Documentary Festival in France in 1987. 


Sci-fi franchise ‘Planet of the Apes’ gets new instalment 

Updated 02 May 2024
Follow

Sci-fi franchise ‘Planet of the Apes’ gets new instalment 

  • Wes Ball directs as dystopic series jumps centuries ahead 

DUBAI: Wes Ball, known for directing dystopic flicks including “Maze Runner” and “Ruin,” wasn’t fully on board when he was first approached to helm “Kingdom of the Planet of the Apes”, the latest instalment in the sci-fi franchise that has spawned 10 films. 

“I was skeptical,” Ball told Arab News. “I’m a big fan of this franchise. I grew up on the original (1968) one. I love the previous three movies (the reboot series that began in 2011). What Andy Serkis did and what Matt Reeves did in those movies, they're distinct; they're incredible movies. And I was questioning whether there was a need for a follow up. 

“I wasn't really into the idea until we figured out this concept that allowed us to be brave enough to go our own direction and not feel the need to be so tied to the previous movies,” he continued. “Of course, there's a lot of love and respect (for) the previous movies, but we wanted to do something new and fresh and original — have a reason to exist, and not just to do another one for the sake of it. So we tried really hard to come up with a story and a group of characters that felt new and different and would be a worthy addition to what's now been 10 movies over 35 years.” 

“Witcher” star Freya Allan plays Mae (centre). (Courtesy of 20th Century Studios)

“Kingdom” is intended as a sequel to 2017’s “War of the Planet of the Apes” — the third film in the rebooted series — but is set nearly 300 years after its events. 

Over those three centuries, ape civilizations have grown and they have become the dominant species on Earth. Humans, meanwhile, have faded and become an “echo” of their ancestors, regressing into a more feral, primitive form. 

Against this backdrop, “Kingdom” tells the coming-of-age story of a young ape called Noa (Owen Teague) as he goes up against the tyrannical ape leader Proximus Caesar (Kevin Durand), aided by a young woman named Mae (Freya Allan). 

The tyrannical ape leader Proximus Caesar is played by Kevin Durand. (20th Century Studios)

Before filming commenced, the cast attended six weeks of ape school, spearheaded by movement coach Alain Gauthier. Teague also spent some time observing chimpanzees. 

“I learned how much like an ape I am. I might be more ape than human,” Teague said. “One of the most fascinating things to me was how political they are, and how complicated their social hierarchy is; it's not entirely vertical, there's this kind of intermingling. Two apes will form a coalition and try to take down another, and the one who's in power will go and campaign. There's all these strategies they use to get where they want to be socially. And I had no idea that they could lie or deceive or backstab the way they do. It makes a lot of sense that we come from them.” 

“Witcher” star Allan — who plays the only significant human role in the film — says her time on the sets of the fantasy Netflix show helped with some of the stunts for this movie. 

“I have gained confidence from doing so much on ‘Witcher.’ And I've done dance in the past. I enjoy doing that physical stuff. I find it really exhilarating to do a stunt well. But there was stuff I did in this film that I haven't done in other things. There was some water stuff that was really fun to do. And just a lot of falling over. I was always bruised,” she said. 

Filmmaker Wes Ball on the set of  ‘Kingdom of the Planet of the Apes.’ (20th century Studios) 

A film set centuries after the fall of human civilization is familiar territory for Ball, who directed all the “Maze Runner” films. 

“I just kind of fall into these worlds for whatever reason,” he said. “But I didn’t come up with the world for ‘Maze Runner,’ it was in the books. I just had to implement and execute it. But that’s a world you don't want to go into: It's dirty. It's dangerous. Whereas this ‘Apes’ world… it's beautiful. It's nature reclaiming the Earth and it's becoming a new Eden in a way. I hope people don't use the word dystopian for this movie. I hope they use words like, ‘a lost world.’ 

“So much time has passed that all signs of humanity have almost been wiped away. I love the idea that it becomes a lovely world that you would like to explore,” he continued. “And the cool thing about it is, underneath all that beauty and tranquility, there's this haunting idea of the mistakes that mankind made.” 


Meet Abdelrahman Mohammed: The artist behind Metro Boomin’s Egyptian concert poster

Updated 01 May 2024
Follow

Meet Abdelrahman Mohammed: The artist behind Metro Boomin’s Egyptian concert poster

DUBAI: US record producer Metro Boomin on Tuesday performed for the first time in Egypt to a crowd of 30,000 in front of the Pyramids of Giza, with the promotional poster for the concert designed by Egyptian artist Abdelrahman Mohammed.

Mohammed’s style incorporates elements from the golden age of Arab cinema in the 1940s to 1960s, redesigned with modern pop culture themes.

Arab News spoke to the artist, who said he is “very grateful” that his work is getting recognition.

 

“I was approached by the producer of Metro Boomin’s concert who works for Live Nation, and she asked me if I wanted to design the official promotional poster for the concert, and I couldn’t pass up on the opportunity,” he said.

The poster features a red and black background with the pyramids and sphinx behind the artist. It was shared on Live Nation’s Instagram account.

“I used Metro’s iconic black and red colors and incorporated his style as an artist. The concert is set in front of the Pyramids of Giza so it was a no-brainer to use that as a strong visual element for the poster,” Mohammed said.

The 24-year-old works as a full-time graphic designer and has accumulated more than 74,000 followers on Instagram.

As a teenager, Mohammed began experimenting with design but lacked the proper equipment to explore his talent.

By 2018, he was able to get his hands on a computer and delve into the world of graphic design.

“I found myself drawn to designing posters with an old-school design. I draw inspiration from old-school movie posters, specifically ones from Arab cinema, because this certain style is not very common and no one really knows much about it,” said Mohammed.

Some of his most notable pieces are fan posters for the popular series “How I Met your Mother” and blockbuster movie “Dune.”

 

He said: “I loved the idea of mixing between the Western style of art and classic Middle Eastern style of art.”

People are drawn to the art style because it combines their culture and heritage, as well as their musical and theatrical interests, he added.

“I love when people get excited by my work and the reaction on social media has been amazing. It’s also amazing to get some form of international recognition for my work like the opportunity to design a poster for a huge rapper,” he said.

When asked, the artist could not pick his favorite work and said each is unique in its own way, but that one piece stands out to him.

“The poster I designed for ‘Fight Club’ is special to me and I have a lot of love for it,” he added.

 

Hard work and passion matter more than talent in creating art, he said.

“Art is something anyone can learn and continue to learn, and if you are passionate about it and truly love your work, you will find success.”