Final night of PLBW brings HSY, Faraz Manan and more to the ramp in Lahore

Designer Hira Ali takes to the ramp alongside model Farwa Kazmi on the final night of PLBW 18.
Updated 08 September 2018
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Final night of PLBW brings HSY, Faraz Manan and more to the ramp in Lahore

  • Pakistan Fashion Design Council’s L’Oreal Paris Bridal Week wrapped up its eighth edition on September 6 with day and evening shows at the Nishat Emporium in Lahore
  • The grand finale of this year’s event featured solo shows by Faraz Manan and Hasan Shehryar Yasin, and group shows featuring Hira Ali Studios, Nickie Nina and Republic

LAHORE: The grand finale of Pakistan Fashion Design Council’s L’Oreal Paris Bridal Week, PLBW for short, arrived decked out in sparkles and shines, with designs featuring modern interpretations and sprinklings of the past.
Day three on Sept. 6 featured runway shows from Republic by Omer Farooq, HSY, Hira Ali Studios, Nickie and Nina, and Faraz Manan. The night also included an appearance by superstar Mahira Khan, who is a spokeswoman for L’Oreal.

Click here to see more photos from the event.

As was the case on day two, the showcases were split into day and evening events. The night-time ramp kicked off with a solo showing from Faraz Manan, who is perhaps one of the most recognizable names in Pakistani bridal couture, his quintessential ethereal creations becoming coveted designs for fashion-conscious brides.
His “AlHambra” collection, which he presented in collaboration with Shazia Deen of Neemar Jewelry, aimed to blend design standpoints from both East and West, specifically taking inspiration from Granada and the architectural styles of the 13th century European Nasrid dynasty. Manan, who has an ever-growing fan base in the UAE, opted for the silhouettes that are sought after in the middle east, mixing modest cuts with his distinctive touches, including colors such as blush, terra cotta, nudes and a touch of jewel tones.
The collection was signature Manan, utilizing iridescent fabrics, intricate but lightweight embroideries and veering toward the contemporary in terms of cuts and hues.
Next up was the group showcase, which kicked off with collections from Nickie Nina, Hira Ali Studio and Republic by Omar Farooq.
Nickie Nina, the brand created by designer duo Aliya Nazir (Nickie) and Nabila Junaid (Nina), is a fixture of the bridal industry, particularly in Lahore where it originated. Their “Noor Mahal” collection was an excellent showcase of the designers’ evolution toward bridging the gap between the expected traditional wedding wear and the aesthetic sensibilities of today. Their designs were a celebration of Punjabi wedding traditions, from the imagery used in the embroidery and block prints to the festive and diverse color palettes, covering the spectrum from bright pastels to rustic earth tones, and the use of classic fabrics such as chunri and jaamivar.Hira Ali of Hira Ali Studios presented a debut bridal show collection titled “Snap Trapped” which reflected “modern-day youth culture.” The collection was a risky move on the (usually) traditional and (usually) expectant ramp, presenting as it did not only bridal garments such as sarees, kameez with pajamas and gowns, but also outfits designed to be worn at pre- and post-wedding events, including cocktail dresses, edgy separates and layered pieces.
Definitely a departure from the type of collections we are used to seeing on the bridal ramp, this playful collection was a cohesive display of individuality that is destined to appeal to fashion and style buffs looking to break the expected molds.
Closing out the group show, with the only menswear collection of the three nights, was Republic by Omar Farooq. A leading name in menswear, he presented a collection, “Hunar,” that was “inspired by the eclectic ancient art and architecture of the subcontinent and aims to bring the intricate detailing and unique artistry of the Mughal era to life.” Special attention was paid to the region of Rajasthan and its historical craftsmanship.
From eastern to western, Farooq’s collection offered a range of options for the groom with an eye for a cut, tailoring and investing in long-lasting style. With subtle detailing such as ombre color work, rich silk fabrics and a focused hand on embroidery, “Hunar” offered grooms who like to dabble in the eclectic, while staying loyal to classic, a chance to find a wedding look that celebrates their day and their personal style.
Before the show, and the event, closed with HSY’s show, L’Oreal Paris presented a showcase from their “Worth It” and “Beauty for a Better Life” initiatives, which ran in tandem with bridal week. It was presented by actor Mahira Khan, a L’Oreal spokeswoman, and model Mehreen Syed, who introduced the concept, a continuation of that which was introduced by the brand at the Cannes film festival this year, and spoke about what both campaigns aim to accomplish.
“L’Oréal genuinely believes in empowering women worldwide to feel confident to control their own lives through education, employment and economic uplift,” said Syed. “This year’s ‘Beauty For A Better Life’ program will enable 500 women from underprivileged socioeconomic backgrounds, including women who are challenged by physical disabilities, to gain free-of-cost beauty training, provide employment opportunities and regain their self-esteem.”
Then it was time for Hasan Shehryar Yasin’s HSY couture house to wrap up the three-night bridal “week” with his collection “Zmarei,” which translates as “lioness” in Pashto, with the models walking the ramp accompanied by live music performed by Indie-folk band Khumariyaan.
The collection is a new addition to HSY’s expanding portfolio, and was created to pay tribute to the “powerful, modern women of today.” Under his HSY Mentorship Program, the designer collaborated with 35 young, creative professionals in universities and colleges to create a collection that was different from his previous offerings. Additionally, it was designed to be affordable, a long-running issue in the bridal world where prices rise season after season.
Styled deliciously with layered jewels and shiny, contrasting turbans, the collection combined the best of HSY with an undeniably contemporary touch not seen on his ramps before. Using organza, a variety of silks and velvet he created a collection that had texture, movement and enough drama to truly embody the HSY aesthetic.
Sehyr Saigol, chair of the PFDC, said: “With each fashion week, we strive to create highly anticipated trends, concepts and talent in the industry, all the while maintaining our authenticity and driving the credibility of fashion in Pakistan forward. Ensuring the integrity of our platforms, we consistently aim to embody the latest innovations in the fashion world each season, with a spirit of continuous evolution.”
With that, another Bridal Week drew to a close. The trends spotted throughout, including Mughal references, dreamy fabric choices and an extra dose of embroidery, will most definitely be making the rounds at weddings come this winter.


Saudi Film ‘Hajjan’ wins 6 nominations at Critics Awards for Arab Films

Updated 26 April 2024
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Saudi Film ‘Hajjan’ wins 6 nominations at Critics Awards for Arab Films

DUBAI: Saudi Arabia-based film “Hajjan,” directed by Egyptian filmmaker Abu Bakr Shawky, is nominated for six categories at the eighth Critics Awards for Arab Films.

The movie is competing in the best feature film, best screenplay, best actor, best music, best cinematography and best editing categories. 

“Hajjan” tells the story of Matar, a boy who embarks on a journey across the desert with his camel, Hofira.

The movie is a co-production between the Kingdom’s King Abdulaziz Center for World Culture, or Ithra, and Egyptian producer Mohamed Hefzy’s Film Clinic. 

The movie, which is written by Omar Shama from Egypt and the Kingdom’s Mufarrij Almajfel, stars Saudi actors Abdulmohsen Al-Nemer, Ibrahim Al-Hsawi, among others. 

The awards ceremony, scheduled for May 18 on the sidelines of the Cannes Film Festival, is organized by the Arab Cinema Center in Cairo and assessed by a panel of 209 critics representing 72 countries. 

Sudanese director Mohamed Kordofani’s inaugural feature film, “Goodbye Julia,” and Tunisian filmmaker Kaouther Ben Hania’s Oscar-nominated documentary, “Four Daughters,” scored nominations in seven categories. 

Jordanian filmmaker Amjad Al-Rasheed’s “Inshallah A Boy” and Palestinian-British director Farah Nabulsi’s “The Teacher” have six nominations.


Emirati designer Hamda Al-Fahim dresses Anya Taylor-Joy for Tiffany event

Updated 26 April 2024
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Emirati designer Hamda Al-Fahim dresses Anya Taylor-Joy for Tiffany event

DUBAI: US actress Anya Taylor-Joy this week was spotted at the Tiffany & Co. celebration of the launch of Blue Book in Beverly Hills wearing a dress by Emirati designer Hamda Al-Fahim.

The actress from “The Queen’s Gambit,” who is the ambassador for the American luxury jewelry label, impressed her fans in a head-turning dark golden brown dress that featured a corset-styled bodice paired with a fitted velvet skirt that flowed down, culminating in a short train trailing behind her.

The dress is called the Velvet Canyon and is from Al-Fahim’s Earthy collection.

Caption

Al-Fahim took to Instagram to share pictures of the star championing her design with her 498,000 followers.

“Anya Taylor-Joy (looks) stunning in our Velvet Canyon,” she wrote on her Stories. 

For her jewelry, Anya chose a glitzy diamond necklace embellished with red rhinestones, accompanied by matching earrings and a ring. She completed the ensemble with a statement chunky silver bracelet.

She styled her blonde hair with a side part, which cascaded in soft waves past her shoulders.

Taylor-Joy was accompanied by a star-studded lineup of celebrities, including Olivia Wilde, Emily Blunt, Gabrielle Union, Quinta Brunson, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Reese Witherspoon, Laura Harrier, Suki Waterhouse and Aimee Song, among others.

Wilde flaunted a black figure-hugging dress with a plunging neckline, Blunt was radiant in a white sequin dress, Union opted for a custom-made Staud dress in black and white, Brunson wore a black velvet midi-gown from Roland Mouret and Huntington-Whiteley chose a white Carolina Herrera dress.

Al-Fahim is an Abu Dhabi-based designer known for her elegant and ethereal aesthetic, often featuring intricate embellishments, delicate fabrics and flattering silhouettes. Her creations combine femininity and sophistication, blending traditional craftsmanship with modern sensibilities.

Seen on red carpets, premieres and high-profile events worldwide, Al-Fahim’s creations have captured the attention of international celebrities including Rihanna and Jennifer Lopez.

Al-Fahim has also previously teamed up with US luxury handbag designer Tyler Ellis on a limited-edition capsule collection in 2022.


REVIEW: Sofia Boutella’s heroic efforts can’t save ‘Rebel Moon — Part Two’

Updated 26 April 2024
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REVIEW: Sofia Boutella’s heroic efforts can’t save ‘Rebel Moon — Part Two’

DUBAI: “Rebel Moon — Part One: A Child of Fire” drew scathing reviews (our writer described it as perhaps “the most discombobulating collection of mismatched sci-fi tropes ever committed to film”). “Part Two: The Scargiver” simply adds to that legacy.

The story: Former Imperium soldier Kora and the surviving band of ragtag warriors she’s recruited return to the moon of Veldt — home to simple farming folk in danger of being blown to bits by the mighty Imperium for failing to supply the unreasonable grain quota demanded of them. With just a few days before the deadline, Kora and her band must train the villagers to fight (and harvest the grain in just three days to provide a bargaining chip). What Kora doesn’t know is that Admiral Noble, the bad guy she ‘killed,’ is still alive. And bent on vengeance.

Before the enemy arrives, the warriors tell their life stories in a trust-building exercise — one of the clunkiest pieces of exposition ever written. There are slow-mo shots of the harvest gathering and a brief interlude to show that Kora and farmer Gunnar are very much in love.

Then, thankfully, we’re into the battle(s). Here, at least, director Zack Snyder doesn’t disappoint, even giving an original twist to the ‘spaceship plummeting from the sky’ trope by staging a showdown between Kora, Gunnar and Admiral Noble on a floor that becomes increasingly vertical. Below them, the villagers fight heroically against odds very much stacked against them, even with the help of Nemesis and her two flaming definitely-not-lightsabers.  

The well-constructed battle scenes, though, aren’t enough. Not even with a cast fighting as heroically as the villagers to salvage something. Sofia Boutella, as Kora, emerges with most credit, proving herself a convincing action hero who deserves better than this material to work with (spoiler alert: perhaps even material that allows the heroine to kill the bad guy herself, without the intervention of her boyfriend).

Yes, no one’s sitting down to watch an “epic space opera” in the expectation of thought-provoking dialogue, but “Rebel Moon” is like the result of forcing a seven-year-old to watch all things “Star Wars” and “Star Trek” in random order, then asking them to write down what happened. The best thing to say about “The Scargiver” is that it finishes — but even that comfort is tainted by Snyder’s cynical setting up of a potential part three. Possibly because that seven-year-old fell asleep before writing an actual ending.


Saudi Arabian history on display at Abu Dhabi Book Fair 

Updated 26 April 2024
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Saudi Arabian history on display at Abu Dhabi Book Fair 

  • Selections from London-based rare-book dealer Peter Harrington’s offering at the UAE fair 

‘Ibn Saud press photograph’ 

According to notes from rare books specialists from Peter Harrington’s team, this image from archives of The Times newspaper was taken in what was then called Hejaz, following a “critical and secretive meeting between (founder of Saudi Arabia) Ibn Saud (center) and the British representative Sir Gilbert Clayton (left) — one of a pivotal series of negotiations which led to the Treaty of Jeddah in May 1927.” The two discussed “various outstanding questions affecting the relations of the Kingdom of the Hejaz and Nejd with the neighboring states of Iraq and Transjordan” to help determine the northern borders of Saudi Arabia. “Discussions over the borders were protracted and complex, with the towns of Maʿan and Kaf the object of particularly intense debate,” the notes state. 

‘Pilgrimage to El-Medinah and Mecca’ by Richard F. Burton 

In this three-volume first edition, complete with illustrations, of “one of the most extraordinary travel narratives of the 19th century,” the British explorer, writer and polyglot Richard Francis Burton recounts his Hajj journey, made “in complete disguise as a Muslim native of the Middle East” at a time when fewer than half-a-dozen Europeans had made the pilgrimage — forbidden to non-Muslims. “It surpassed all preceding Western accounts of the holy cities of Islam, made Burton famous, and became a classic of travel literature, described by T. E. Lawrence as ‘a most remarkable work of the highest value,’” the team from Peter Harrington note. In Makkah, Burton performed all the rites of the pilgrimage and his subterfuge remained undiscovered. 

‘Map and Overview Presenting the Hejaz Railway Route’ 

This map from 1903 depicts the route of the ambitious Hejaz Railway project. It “depicts a very broad area, extending from just north of Hama, Syria, all the way south a little way past Makkah, in the Hejaz; it covers most of Syria, all of Palestine, the Sinai Peninsula, the Suez Canal, and all the north-western Arabian Peninsula,” Peter Harrington’s rare book experts write. “It clearly delineates those parts of the railway that are in place and those under construction … with each station labelled. Additionally, it depicts the two alternative routes proposed for extending the line to Makkah, employing broken lines, while another line traces the proposed (but unrealized) route of a rail line from Makkah to Jeddah. The map also labels important roads and caravan routes.” 

Four years after this map was published, the book seller’s notes state, the railway reached AlUla, which is not marked on this map, although Mada’in Salah (now Hegra) is, which today is the site of one of two museums dedicated to the Hejaz Railway.  

By 1908, the railway had reached Madinah, where, the notes state, “for various political reasons, it had to be terminated.” Nevertheless, they continue, “until the outbreak of the First World War, it allowed hundreds of thousands of pilgrims to make the Hajj in safety and with relative ease.” 

‘Material from the library of Peter O’Toole by T.E. Lawrence’ 

Billed by Peter Harrington as an “insightful archive, spanning Lawrence’s transformation from man of the moment to unwilling celebrity, from the library of Peter O’Toole, whose breakthrough portrayal in David Lean’s 1962 biopic still shapes perceptions of the famous Arabist. Autograph material from Lawrence is always highly prized, but rarely is its provenance so apposite.” 

The centerpiece of the material is a photograph and an unpublished letter written by Lawrence (who became known as Lawrence of Arabia following his journeys across the Middle East, including modern-day Saudi Arabia), framed as a piece and gifted to the English actor who played Lawrence in the aforementioned biopic by his wife, Sian, and a friend not long before the premiere of the movie. The letter makes clear Lawrence’s difficult relationship with his celebrity, and is cutting about his own book, “The Seven Pillars of Wisdom,” saying that he did not own a copy himself (“No man yet has ever wanted to read his own book”) but that his mother and “little brother” did, “and that is plenty for the family. Nobody reads it: it is worth too much money. ... It is a rotten book, you know.” 

‘Oil Region in the Desert of Saudi Arabia’ 

This 1950 image, “after a painting by the German artist Michael Mathias Kiefer,” is one of a series of geographical pictures intended for use in the curriculum of German schools. “The painting juxtaposes Arab figures in traditional garb with images of drilling rigs, a lorry, and oil storage tanks, creating a strikingly orientalist image,” Peter Harrington’s notes state. “In the middle of the composition, a pipeline bisects the image, a forceful reminder of the centrality of oil to the modern Saudi Arabian economy. In the foreground, members of a group of travelers, possibly intended to be Bedouins, rest on a carpet and let their camels drink from a water tank. Away in the background, before a distant oasis, more travelers arrive at a campsite, their camels heavily laden. Their destination is the oil infrastructure that crowds the right of the image.” 


Recipes for Success: Chef Antonio De Crecchio offers advice and a gnocchi with duck ragu recipe

Updated 26 April 2024
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Recipes for Success: Chef Antonio De Crecchio offers advice and a gnocchi with duck ragu recipe

DUBAI: Antonio De Crecchio began his career back in 2006, working as a pizza chef in Naples, Italy. He was, he says, just 14 years old. 

“I’ve always loved food and cooking, but that’s when I truly fell in love with cooking,” he tells Arab News. “My first boss was tough on me, but it taught me a lot about handling the job and pushing myself to get better.” 

Antonio De Crecchio began his career back in 2006. (Supplied)

He continued to work as a pizza chef at various Rossopomodoro outlets across the UK, including London, Birmingham, and Newcastle, before returning to Italy to lead the team at Rossopomodoro in Torino and Milano. In 2019, he moved to the UAE, taking a job as pizza chef at Antica Pizzeria da Michele in Dubai. He is currently executive chef of Amò at Via Toledo in Dubai’s Address Beach Resort.  

“Working here has been emotional for me,” he says. “After spending many years in a casual dining restaurant, opening a fine dining restaurant feels like reaching a higher level,” he said. 

Here, De Crecchio — affectionately known as Chef Toto — discusses tips for amateur chefs, his love for Italian cuisine, and his most challenging dish. 

Amò is at Via Toledo in Dubai’s Address Beach Resort. (Supplied)

What’s your top tip for amateur chefs cooking at home? 

Invest in a Bimby. It’s a great tool for making pizza dough, ensuring that the result matches what you’d get at a restaurant. Plus it saves a lot of time, allowing you to focus on other tasks. Making dough correctly requires a lot of experience, so having the right equipment can make a big difference. 

When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?  

Yes. Often. 

And what’s the most common issue that you find in other restaurants? 

One thing I notice, especially with Italian food, is that the pasta is not always cooked al dente, as it should be. This can be challenging for me because I have a strong preference for the traditional Italian food that my grandma used to make. 

Tiramisu. (Supplied)

 

What’s your favorite cuisine when you go out? 

My favorite cuisine is Italian, especially pasta. It reminds me of my home country and brings back fond memories. 

What customer request or behavior most annoys you? 

The requests that annoy me the most are when they ask for pasta with chicken and pizza with pineapple. 

What’s your favorite dish to cook?  

My favorite dish to cook is pasta, because it reminds me of Sundays back home when my mom used to prepare it for our family lunches. 

Pizza Chiena, a savory pie. (Supplied)

 

What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right? 

The most challenging dish for me to perfect is our egg dish. It requires cooking at a low temperature to maintain a soft interior, and achieving the right texture for the foam that accompanies it is crucial. If you don’t achieve the exact balance, then the dish loses its identity. 

As a head chef, what are you like? Are you a disciplinarian? Or are you more laid back?  

As a head chef, I prioritize discipline, but I avoid shouting at my staff. In the kitchen, maintaining both discipline and empathy with my team is essential for success. 

Chef Antonio’s gnocchi with duck ragu  

Gnocchi with Duck Ragu Recipe. (Supplied)

INGREDIENTS 

1kg potatoes; 100g parmesan cheese; 15g salt; 1 egg; 375g all-purpose flour; 1kg duck legs; 250g carrots, chopped; 250g white onion, chopped; 250g celery, chopped 

INSTRUCTIONS 

For the duck ragu: 

1. Heat a pot on the stove until it reaches smoking point. Add blended oil. 

2. Season the skin side of the duck legs with salt. Sear them until the outer surface of the meat is scorched, then transfer to a deep tray, cover them with their fat and place in the oven at 150°C for two hours. 

3. In the same pot used for searing, add the celery, white onion and carrots to the duck fat and deglaze with approximately 4 liters of chicken stock. 

4. Bring the stock to a boil, then slowly add each leg to the boiling stock. 

5. Transfer the stock and duck legs into a large oven dish and heat in the oven at 160°C for two hours. 

6. Remove the dish from the oven, take the duck legs out of the liquid and gently pull the meat from the duck legs, setting it aside. 

7. Transfer the remaining liquid to a pot and reduce for one hour. 

8. Allow the reduction to cool down, then mix it with the duck meat to prepare the duck ragu. 

For the gnocchi 

1. Steam the potatoes until tender, then mash. 

2. Add grated parmesan cheese, salt, egg, and flour, and combine to form a dough. 

3. Roll the dough into ropes and cut it into small pieces to form gnocchi. 

4. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil, then cook the gnocchi until they float to the surface. Remove and set aside. 

5. Toast the cooked gnocchi with butter and additional parmesan cheese in a pan until lightly browned. 

6. Plate the gnocchi and top with the prepared duck ragu.