PARIS: A host of French-owned fashion labels spanning Christian Dior to Saint Laurent pledged Wednesday to ban ultra-thin models from their advertising and catwalk shows following criticism that the industry encourages anorexia.
French holding companies LVMH and Kering, which own dozens of top brands between them, unveiled a charter “to ensure the well-being of models” which will also outlaw the hiring of girls under the age of 16 for adult shoots or events.
In May, a French law requiring models to present a doctor’s certificate attesting to their good health was introduced to try to tackle the problem of the industry promoting thinness and unattainable beauty ideals.
The two French groups said they wanted to go beyond this requirement and would only use female models who were size 34 or over according to the French system, and men sized 44 or over.
Size 32 in France corresponds to XXS, or size 6 in Britain and size 0 in the United States.
“Respecting the dignity of all women has always been both a personal commitment for me and a priority for Kering as a group,” the company’s billionaire chairman François-Henri Pinault said in a statement.
“We hope to inspire the entire industry to follow suit, thus making a real difference in the working conditions of fashion models industry-wide,” he added.
As well as the age and size stipulations, the charter includes other measures such as banning the serving of alcohol to models under 18 and ensuring they have a guardian or chaperone present at all times.
“As the leader in the luxury sector, we believe it is our role to be at the forefront of this initiative,” said Antoine Arnault, a board member of LVMH and son of owner Bernard Arnault, in a statement.
“We have the responsibility of building new standards for fashion and we hope to be followed by other players in our sector,” he added.
Speaking to AFP, Arnault explained that some unnamed designers worked with size 32 models.
“That’s finished now, the size will be 34 and above, which is already quite small,” he said.
LVMH is a luxury goods behemoth that owns classic French brands Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior and Givenchy as well as other high-end European names including Fendi and Marc Jacobs.
Kering owns Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Alexander McQueen and Saint Laurent among others.
In 2015, Saint Laurent had to withdraw a magazine advertisement in Britain over its use of of an “unhealthily thin model” and earlier this year, it caused outrage with a poster campaign around Paris.
In those pictures, a reclining woman in a fur coat and fishnet tights was pictured opening her legs, while another extremely thin model was photographed in a leotard and roller skate stilettos bending over a stool.
The head of the French advertising authority said they were part of a disturbing trend in fashion promoting “porno-chic” and the label was ordered to remove them.
French fashion giants ban ultra-thin models
French fashion giants ban ultra-thin models
Bella Hadid unveils debut fragrances from her new brand Orebella
- Model and runway star to launch brand with 3 perfumes
- Alcohol-free products highlight Hadid’s health concerns
DUBAI: American-Dutch-Palestinian model Bella Hadid has unveiled “skin perfumes,” the inaugural products of her new brand, Orebella.
The runway sensation turned to Instagram on Wednesday to showcase images of her fragrances, which are named “Salted Muse,” “Blooming Fire” and “Window2Soul.”
Crafted from glass and adorned with a gold cap, the bottles are offered in 10 ml, 50 ml and 100 ml.
Hadid in her caption described the fragrances as “hydrating, alcohol-free and enriched with essential oils.” She urged her followers to “shake to activate the transformative bi-phase formula.”
The “Salted Muse” perfume has “top notes” of sea salt, pink pepper and carbon dioxide extract, “heart notes” of olive tree accord, fig and lavender, and “base notes” of cedarwood, sandalwood and amber, according to reports.
The “Blooming Fire” fragrance has bergamot, cedarwood, clove leaf and cardamom, followed by Tahitian monoi and jasmine, and finishes with patchouli.
The “Window2Soul” scent has a blend of lemon, geranium and mint in its top notes, transitions to jasmine and damask rose, and concludes with a base of tonka bean.
The brand will launch on May 2.
Hadid wrote on her website: “For me, fragrance has always been at the center of my life — helping me feel in charge of who I am and my surroundings,” she said. “From my home to nostalgic memories, to my own energy and connection with others, scent has been an outlet for me. It made me feel safe in my own world.”
“Through my healing journey, I found that I was extremely sensitive to the alcohol in traditional perfumes — both physically and mentally — it became something that was more overwhelming than calming to me,” she added. “That is the main reason I wanted to find an alternative, so essential oils became an artistic and experimental process for me.”
She started growing lavender on her farm, walking through the garden every morning and learning about her family’s tradition of making homemade scents. “I realized I might have a calling in this. I found healing, joy, and love within nature’s scents,” she said.
“This is why I am so proud of Orebella. It was truly a dream and a passion, that through the universe and authentic dedication, was able to become this brand,” she wrote.
Simi, Haze Khadra thank Saudi fans after beauty masterclass
DUBAI: US Palestinian beauty moguls Simi and Haze Khadra concluded their beauty masterclass sessions in Riyadh this week, before flying to Dubai.
The masterclass sessions celebrate the Middle East launch of their eponymous label SimiHaze Beauty, with their products now available to purchase at Sephora stores in the region.
“Best day with all the amazing people in Riyadh. Thank you so much for all the love and so happy you all love everything,” the sisters posted on Instagram Stories.
The twins launched their US-born cosmetics brand in 2021 with a range of stick-on makeup designs that can be placed on the face for a bold beauty look achievable within seconds. The sticker book features an array of edgy designs inspired by their favorite DJ looks from the past, such as chrome wings, neon negative space eyeliner and holographic cat-eyes.
SimiHaze Beauty has expanded to include a range of products, including lipsticks, bronzing powders, a lifting mascara and more.
Floris London’s Edward Bodenham on designing scents for the Middle East
DUBAI: Established in 1730, British perfume label Floris London is the only perfumer to hold royal warrants in the UK. With a historic client list that includes British Prime Minister Winston Churchill and Hollywood icon Marilyn Monroe, the storied label is also particularly interested in the Arab world — besides designing bespoke fragrances for clientele in the region, the brand has released a men’s scent that is exclusive to the Middle East.
Having designed custom fragrances for individuals in the region before, Edward Bodenham, brand director of Floris London, told Arab News that that the perfumery team “noted a trend in warm, comforting, deep fragrances. Definitely, a strong connection to rose, patchouli and precious Cambodian oud oil … a particular highlight to the forward-thinking taste of these clients is their interest in dynamic notes like cashmere and smoke.”
The untrained nose will be able to detect the vast differences in typically European scents and those that are popular across the Middle East, and Bodenham made further distinctions between British perfumes and those found in mainland Europe.
“The differences between traditionally English or British fragrances and those that are popular in the Gulf is that our classic scents generally tend to be lighter in comparison. I would say that French and Italian fragrances, generally speaking, tend to be more intense though, so more similar to fragrances popular in the Gulf,” he said.
With regard to their latest regional offering, Santal Intense, Bodenham explained that it builds on the same notes found in the Santal Eau de Toilette that was released in the early 2000s.
“When creating the original Santal we wanted to compose a sandalwood themed fragrance for a new generation. We created a scent with a reassuring fougere theme, but with some modern and unexpected twists, like the inclusion of notes of green grass, black pepper, cardamom, nutmeg and tonka bean,” he said, using the term “fougere” that means “fern-like” in French and describes one of the main fragrance families.
“When creating Santal Intense we focused on increasing the levels of amber, woody amber and frankincense within the fragrance, which provided a greater depth and longevity as well as increasing the sillage of the scent,” he explained, referring to the scent trail that a perfume leaves behind as it evaporates.
Floris London’s royal warrants give the label the right to be named as an official supplier to the British royal family and use the royal coat of arms on their products.
“I think that, to some extent, holding royal warrants and having a connection to the British royal family does have an appeal, because, unlike a sponsorship from a celebrity who is paid to use and endorse a fragrance, the royal family remain impartial and are free to choose and support fragrances from any fragrance house they prefer,” Bodenham commented on the company’s royal connection.
Model Imaan Hammam walks for Ralph Lauren in New York
DUBAI: Dutch Moroccan Egyptian model Imaan Hammam hit the runway in New York City on Monday at the Ralph Lauren Fall/Holiday 2024 show.
Hammam graced the catwalk in a soft, ethereal button-down silk dress in a radiant metallic cream hue. Her ensemble also featured a beige cardigan that was buttoned at the center.
Completing her look, a matching purse was draped over her shoulder and she flaunted shoulder-grazing dangling earrings.
The show, which was minimal in Ralph Lauren terms, was inspired by Lauren’s first women’s fashion show in 1972, where he displayed his wares to editors and friends in his own office.
In front of a typically starry front row that included actors Glenn Close, Jessica Chastain, Kerry Washington, Rebecca Hall and Jodie Turner-Smith, Lauren opened his show on a note of timelessness — his longtime ethos — with the appearance of muse and supermodel Christy Turlington, now 55, in a sleek beige wool coat.
The collection featured a series of designs in soothing neutral tones — tans, browns, grays, black and metallics. The soft palette characterized both daytime garments like tailored jackets and sweaters with trousers, and evening wear like slinky, sequined gowns. There were roomy sweaters, lots of boots and wide leather belts with “RL” buckles.
There were Lauren’s familiar Western accents, like long fringes on coats and jacket sleeves. And especially the occasional cowboy hat, which accompanied not only casual ensembles but, to close out the show with a memorable look, a backless gown dress in sparkly gold.
Lauren, 84, appeared briefly at the end, in well-worn jeans, to cheers from the crowd.
Close wore a white Lauren pantsuit. “This is a very, very special suit,” the actor said at the event. “It was made especially for me. Custom. Five years ago. I won a SAG award in it. So here I am. It looks just as beautiful. It’s a shame to wear something like this only once.”
Close added that growing up in New England, “the mentality was, you buy something that has great quality and then you wear it until it wears out. That’s how I was brought up.”
Fantasia Barrino-Taylor flaunts Monot in New York
DUBAI: Helmed by Lebanese designer Eli Mizrahi, New York-based label Monot dressed US actress Fantasia Barrino-Taylor for a red carpet appearance at the 2024 Time100 Gala.
Barrino-Taylor showed off a custom look by the label, which featured head-to-toe sequins and wrist cuffs that flared dramatically to cover her hands. The backless number was figure hugging and Barrino-Taylor complemented the outfit with a black, sequined head wrap.
Mizrahi is no stranger to star power and made headlines in 2020 when he enlisted the likes of British supermodel Kate Moss, Italian star Mariacarla Boscono, British model Jourdan Dunn, US celebrity Amber Valletta and China’s Xiao Wen to star in a Monot campaign shot in Saudi Arabia.
The label has garnered a legion of celebrity fans, with US Olympian Simone Biles, model Kendall Jenner, Brazilian influencer Camila Coelho and US model Emily Ratajkowski donning Monot looks in the past.
“The Color Purple” star Barrino-Taylor also made headlines when she attended the Astra Film Awards in Los Angeles in January in a mandarin orange gown by Saudi designer Yousef Akbar.
Barrino, who is also a singer, most recently starred as protagonist Celie in “The Color Purple,” a musical period drama film directed by Blitz Bazawule. The film’s screenplay is based on the stage musical of the same name, which in turn is based on the 1982 novel by Alice Walker. It is the second film adaptation of the novel, following the 1985 film directed by Steven Spielberg and produced by Spielberg and Quincy Jones.
The movie tells the story of Celie, who is torn apart from her sister and her children and faces many hardships in life, including an abusive husband. With support from a sultry singer named Shug Avery, as well as her stand-her-ground stepdaughter, Celie ultimately finds strength.
Barrino showed off Akbar’s gown at an event in Los Angeles and paired it with chunky gold jewelry and slicked back hair.
