PARIS: Using globalization’s potential with the precision of master designers making fashion, France’s luxury companies are generating jobs again, defying nationwide gloom over stubbornly high unemployment.
As they feed the world’s growing appetite for the ultimate in chic, the likes of Hermes and Chanel are hiring qualified staff in the hundreds and even thousands, most of them in France itself, a growing contribution to reducing the nation’s jobless pool of nearly 3.5 million.
Birkin-bag maker Hermes is the latest French luxury firm to announce new jobs, opening two new leather workshops and adding 220 employees to meet rising demand abroad, particularly in Asia.
Other French labels such as Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Yves Saint Laurent have also become major global brands for ready-to-wear, accessories and perfume.
As sales rise, especially to Chinese consumers slaking their thirst for luxury goods, manufacturers are adding jobs.
That goes against the grain of the overall manufacturing sector in France, which has seen its share of economic output halved over the past half century to account for around 11 percent, according to World Bank data.
At Saint-Junien in central France, where Hermes opened one of the new workshops, dozens of craftsmen cut and stitch leather into gloves, wallets and other small objects.
In this facility, which used to process wool, there is no automation. Work is done by hand and each piece is signed by the craftsman.
“It is unimaginable creating a site like this in another country,” said Guillaume de Seynes, executive vice president of manufacturing for Hermes, which was founded in 1837.
“It is out of consideration for quality and a question of image. Made in France means to clients French know-how” that has been handed down for generations.
“Very clearly, for the luxury sector, the enrichment of new countries, globalization, were a historic chance for the creation of jobs, as in aeronautics,” said de Seynes, a descendant of the firm’s founder Thierry Hermes.
In the past five years, the company which makes 85 percent of its products in France and exports 86 percent of them, has created 2,400 new jobs in the country.
Hermes is not alone.
Kering, the Paris-based world’s number two luxury company whose stable includes Yves Saint Laurent, Gucci and Bottega Veneta, has also bulked up.
Over the past three years the staff at its luxury division has expanded by 13 percent.
In 2013, it acquired the Normandy-based France Croco, a tannery that specializes in working with crocodile skins and supplies top French and Italian fashion houses. Staff levels are expected to rise from 45 to 160 by 2020.
Meanwhile at LVMH, the top luxury company with 70 brands including fashion houses Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, Guerlain, Givenchy as well as Moet et Chandon champagne and Hennessy cognac, added about 1,000 positions last year to meet rising sales, which hit 40 billion euros ($41 billion) this year.
And “the trend is comparable, even a bit higher for 2017” said Chantal Gaemperle, the company’s head of human resources.
The hiring “is for all professions, all along the hierarchy, from manual skills to managers,” she said, adding 93 percent of the contracts are permanent.
A sign of the luxury sector’s growing weight, LVMH this year became the largest company on the Paris stock exchange by market capitalization, pushing aside energy firm Total and drugs maker Sanofi.
“It is a powerful symbol. Luxury has a significant weight in the French economy,” said Olivier Abtan, who leads the global luxury sector team at Boston Consulting Group.
He said French luxury firms had managed to retain a sense of exclusiveness and creativity, while managing to avoid diluting their image.
And he believes many of the new jobs are likely to last.
“What makes these products different is that they are handmade. The strong element of craftmanship means it is something that cannot be done by robots that replace humans,” said Abtan.
While France remains a leader in leatherwork and jewelry it has, however, lost know-how in footwear and ready-to-wear to Italy, which poses a real challenge to French firms, Abtan added.
The luxury effect also spills over to the appliance sector.
Vorwerk, the German company behind the top-end Thermomix food processors-cookers, has invested 100 million euros in its factory in central France during the past few years, adding 100 jobs, as it sought to keep up with rising sales.
French luxury leaders create precious work at home
French luxury leaders create precious work at home
Fantasia Barrino-Taylor flaunts Monot in New York
DUBAI: Helmed by Lebanese designer Eli Mizrahi, New York-based label Monot dressed US actress Fantasia Barrino-Taylor for a red carpet appearance at the 2024 Time100 Gala.
Barrino-Taylor showed off a custom look by the label, which featured head-to-toe sequins and wrist cuffs that flared dramatically to cover her hands. The backless number was figure hugging and Barrino-Taylor complemented the outfit with a black, sequined head wrap.
Mizrahi is no stranger to star power and made headlines in 2020 when he enlisted the likes of British supermodel Kate Moss, Italian star Mariacarla Boscono, British model Jourdan Dunn, US celebrity Amber Valletta and China’s Xiao Wen to star in a Monot campaign shot in Saudi Arabia.
The label has garnered a legion of celebrity fans, with US Olympian Simone Biles, model Kendall Jenner, Brazilian influencer Camila Coelho and US model Emily Ratajkowski donning Monot looks in the past.
“The Color Purple” star Barrino-Taylor also made headlines when she attended the Astra Film Awards in Los Angeles in January in a mandarin orange gown by Saudi designer Yousef Akbar.
Barrino, who is also a singer, most recently starred as protagonist Celie in “The Color Purple,” a musical period drama film directed by Blitz Bazawule. The film’s screenplay is based on the stage musical of the same name, which in turn is based on the 1982 novel by Alice Walker. It is the second film adaptation of the novel, following the 1985 film directed by Steven Spielberg and produced by Spielberg and Quincy Jones.
The movie tells the story of Celie, who is torn apart from her sister and her children and faces many hardships in life, including an abusive husband. With support from a sultry singer named Shug Avery, as well as her stand-her-ground stepdaughter, Celie ultimately finds strength.
Barrino showed off Akbar’s gown at an event in Los Angeles and paired it with chunky gold jewelry and slicked back hair.
Guerlain’s Ann-Caroline Prazan on mixing cultures, Mideast inspiration
DUBAI: Ann-Caroline Prazan, the director of art, culture, and heritage at French luxury beauty brand Guerlain, shared her affection for the Middle East and shed light on why she is so keen to mesh together cultures when creating new products.
“The Guerlain family is totally in love with the region. I am in love with this region because it is like a paradise,” she told Arab News. “People here love fragrances and they are such experts. When Guerlain creates a fragrance for the Middle East, it is always with a French touch.”
For Prazan, who joined the Guerlain team in 2000, understanding the brand’s story has been pivotal, motivating her to craft fragrances over her 24-year tenure, prioritizing longevity over trends.
“It is important to understand the past to create a future,” Prazan said. “You know, a house is like a big tree. You need to know the roots to create the leaves and to create new flowers. Without roots, you cannot do anything if you do not understand the brand.”
“Innovation is our obsession,” she added. “Guerlain created the first lipsticks, the first lip liners, the first modern perfume, the first moisturizing Nivea cream was by Guerlain.”
Her regional knowledge shapes Guerlain’s tailored fragrances for its customers.
“You have the best perfumers here, local perfumers. What was interesting is to mix the roots with the leaves to mix different cultures. And for me, when you mix different cultures, when you mix traditions and modernity, you can create beautiful products,” she explained.
Guerlain has collaborated with regional creatives before. In 2023, the brand worked with Lebanese artist Nadine Kanso to design a fragrance bottle for the label, making her the first Arab designer to collaborate with the LVMH-owned perfume and beauty house.
She designed 30 limited edition bee-inspired bottles, decorated with 1,720 crystals, with Arabic calligraphy that read “Love.”
At an event in Dubai last week, the label chose to work with contemporary Tunisian artist Nja Mahdaoui, who showcased his abstract Arabic calligraphy with engraved Cherry Oud bottles serving as place cards for the invitees.
The brand also created a number of bottles, showcased at the event in Dubai, that celebrate Arab design elements.
The Parfumerie D’Art collection features the Bee Bottle by Baqué Molinié. Unveiled to mark Eid Al-Fitr this year, the bottle features hand-placed mother-of-pearl beads and moonstones, designed by the Parisian atelier as a tribute to the “wonders of Arab architectural art,” according to a released statement.
Emirati designer Hamda Al-Fahim dresses Anya Taylor-Joy for Tiffany event
DUBAI: US actress Anya Taylor-Joy this week was spotted at the Tiffany & Co. celebration of the launch of Blue Book in Beverly Hills wearing a dress by Emirati designer Hamda Al-Fahim.
The actress from “The Queen’s Gambit,” who is the ambassador for the American luxury jewelry label, impressed her fans in a head-turning dark golden brown dress that featured a corset-styled bodice paired with a fitted velvet skirt that flowed down, culminating in a short train trailing behind her.
The dress is called the Velvet Canyon and is from Al-Fahim’s Earthy collection.
Al-Fahim took to Instagram to share pictures of the star championing her design with her 498,000 followers.
“Anya Taylor-Joy (looks) stunning in our Velvet Canyon,” she wrote on her Stories.
For her jewelry, Anya chose a glitzy diamond necklace embellished with red rhinestones, accompanied by matching earrings and a ring. She completed the ensemble with a statement chunky silver bracelet.
She styled her blonde hair with a side part, which cascaded in soft waves past her shoulders.
Taylor-Joy was accompanied by a star-studded lineup of celebrities, including Olivia Wilde, Emily Blunt, Gabrielle Union, Quinta Brunson, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Reese Witherspoon, Laura Harrier, Suki Waterhouse and Aimee Song, among others.
Wilde flaunted a black figure-hugging dress with a plunging neckline, Blunt was radiant in a white sequin dress, Union opted for a custom-made Staud dress in black and white, Brunson wore a black velvet midi-gown from Roland Mouret and Huntington-Whiteley chose a white Carolina Herrera dress.
Al-Fahim is an Abu Dhabi-based designer known for her elegant and ethereal aesthetic, often featuring intricate embellishments, delicate fabrics and flattering silhouettes. Her creations combine femininity and sophistication, blending traditional craftsmanship with modern sensibilities.
Seen on red carpets, premieres and high-profile events worldwide, Al-Fahim’s creations have captured the attention of international celebrities including Rihanna and Jennifer Lopez.
Al-Fahim has also previously teamed up with US luxury handbag designer Tyler Ellis on a limited-edition capsule collection in 2022.
Birthday wishes pour in for Gigi Hadid
DUBAI: US Dutch Palestinian model Gigi Hadid turned 29 this week and the fashion and beauty crowd took to Instagram in droves to wish her a happy birthday.
Hadid’s younger sister, Bella Hadid, kickstarted the well wishes with a heartwarming message alongside a carousel of photos of the sisters, including several childhood snaps.
“Happy birthday princess of Genovia, I love you so much,” Bella captioned her Instagram post. “Life without you would be nothing, I would be nothing! You inspire me and make me feel strong.
“Watching you give birth and then raise the most perfect angel is the most magical gift a sister could ask for,” Bella wrote to the mother-of-one. “I feel so lucky. You are the best and coolest mama, best sister, best daughter, and best friend. Anyone who has the privilege to be in your orbit is lucky. I love you sissy, you make me feel proud to be your sister.”
Leading designers also took to the photo-sharing social media platform to celebrate the birthday girl, including Donatella Versace who wrote: “Happy Birthday to you, my girl @gigihadid. You are beautiful inside and out, Gigi. I hope you have the best day celebrating with Khai and all your loved ones. You deserve the best, always.”
Khai is Hadid’s three-year-old daughter with British singer Zayn Malik.
Fellow model Lily Aldridge, British designer and TV personality Tan France, stylists Elizabeth Sulcer and Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, celebrity makeup artist Partick Ta and many more all took to Instagram Stories to share touching messages.
Also paying tribute to the catwalk star on her special day was her father, Palestinian real estate mogul Mohamed Hadid, who shared a thoughtful birthday message on his feed.
“Happiest birthday to my beautiful smart elegant loving caring talented mother sister daughter one can ever be. Happy birthday my love,” he wrote.
Hadid has been occupied with her fashion label, Guest In Residence. Just last week, she unveiled the Spring/Summer collection both online and in stores. The collection introduces the brand’s inaugural cotton and silk blends, along with lightweight cashmere options.
Milan’s Istituto Marangoni to open campus in Riyadh
RIYADH: Milan-based Istituto Marangoni, in collaboration with the Saudi Fashion Commission, will open a Higher Training Institute in Riyadh offering courses specialized in fashion and luxury, with plans to inaugurate the institute in 2025.
According to a released statement, the institute’s mission in Saudi Arabia is to explore new avenues for local talent development and generate employment opportunities in the relevant industries.
“We are very excited to do a partnership with Istituto Marangoni. It's one of the leading global educational institutions focused on fashion and design. They have many campuses around the world, but for Saudi Arabia, it's the first time they are opening their campus. And they are also the first educational institution to come into Saudi Arabia as a foreign direct investment, which shows their commitment to the potential in the Saudi market, especially for creatives and businesses, and through this partnership, we'll be able to educate and provide employment to all the local creatives in the industry in Saudi Arabia,” Burak Çakmak, chief executive officer of the Fashion Commission under Saudi Arabia’s Ministry of Culture, told Arab News.
The new institute in Riyadh, to be accredited by the Technical and Vocational Training Corporation, will offer three-year advanced diplomas available in specific areas such as Fashion Design, Fashion Management, Fashion Product, Fashion Styling & Creative Direction, and also in the management of Fragrances & Cosmetics and Interior Design. Students will be able to choose whether to complete the advanced diploma in Riyadh, with the option of stepping into the fashion industry through a six-month internship during the last year of study, or complete studies for a bachelor’s degree at any international Istituto Marangoni campus.
The institute has campuses in Milan, Florence, Dubai, Paris, London and Miami.
In a released statement, Stefania Valenti, Global Managing Director of Istituto Marangoni, said: “We created this important partnership with the Saudi Fashion Commission because we believed that they are going to have a very strong agenda that is going to create a fashion (and) luxury system in Saudi (Arabia).
“We want to provide our knowledge and skills to the new generation, because there is a strong appetite here for the young generation, for the women, that they want to start to study in Saudi, they don't want to study abroad,” she added.
