Saudi Fashion Commission CEO Burak Cakmak unveils plans for the future

Burak Cakmak had been appointed to lead Saudi Arabia’s Fashion Commission. File/Getty Images
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Updated 27 February 2021
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Saudi Fashion Commission CEO Burak Cakmak unveils plans for the future

DUBAI: Last week it was announced by Saudi Arabia’s Ministry of Culture that Burak Cakmak had been appointed to lead the Kingdom’s Fashion Commission, one of the 11 bodies under the Kingdom’s Ministry of Culture, to help develop the country’s burgeoning fashion industry.

“I was honored to have a chance to join the team at the Fashion Commission to lead the implementation of an ambitious strategy to build a robust fashion industry in Saudi Arabia,” said Cakmak, a former Dean of Fashion at the Parsons School of Design in New York, to Arab News. 

“Saudi Arabia has all the key elements for building a successful fashion industry today. With traditions and heritage to inspire, its creative community keen to build new businesses and a fashion conscious young population engaged in retail and social media with fashion. Saudi (Arabia) is in a great place to become a key influencer in the region and globally,” he added.

In his new role as the CEO of the Fashion Commission, Cakmak will be responsible for a string of tasks, including supporting and empowering talent, professionals and entrepreneurs in the local fashion industry, developing and regulating the fashion sector as well as encouraging finance and investment.

“One of my main focus areas is to identify opportunities for Saudi to create fashion solutions that are innovative, technology driven, sustainable and aligned with the expectations of the 21st century global consumer,” said Cakmak of some of the changes he would like to implement in his new role. 

“As we are building and growing a relatively new industry in the country, we need to ensure we don't repeat the mistakes of the West from the past century.  This means that we need to focus on building new business models that are able to manage social and environmental impacts, (and that are) transparent and innovative in the way they engage the consumer.”

In addition to managing and developing the fashion sector in Saudi Arabia, Cakmak also hopes to shine a positive spotlight on the Kingdom’s burgeoning fashion scene. 

 “At the moment there is not enough information available about the creativity coming out of the Kingdom to the rest of the world,” he noted. “The richness of the country’s heritage and crafts, as well as its designers, with both traditional and modern takes on Saudi fashion, is a great starting point for us to start shaping perceptions around the Saudi creative industry.”

In the past two years alone, Saudi Arabia has rolled out a series of changes that can be attributed to Vision 2030, a plan that focuses on modernizing Saudi culture, diversifying its economy away from oil, attracting new global investments, and supporting small local businesses. One of the areas that is showing real potential is the country’s fashion sector.

“Recent initiatives around tourism and a deeper focus on diversifying local economic sectors have been a great catalyst in stimulating the fashion industry,” Cakmak said.  




Models backstage ahead of the Arwa al Banawi show at Fashion Forward October 2017. Getty Images

Indeed, the country’s fashion sector is rapidly on the ascent. In the last couple of years, the country hosted its first-ever Fashion Week in Riyadh in 2018, the Dubai-based Arab Fashion Council opened up an office in Riyadh and Saudi fashion designers are getting more recognition than ever as they lay the groundwork for a real, thriving fashion industry.

“Mohammed Khoja’s brand, Hindamme, produced a jacket embroidered with the words ‘24 June 2018’ – the date women in Saudi started driving, which was acquired by the Victoria & Albert Museum in London as part of their permanent fashion collection. Meanwhile at the end of last year, the brand of Saudi sisters – Sarah and Siham Albinali – Lurline, was declared joint second runner-up in the Vogue Arabia Fashion Prize.  And one of Mohammed Ashi’s creations was worn on the red carpet by Oscar-nominated director and screenwriter Ava DuVernay at the Academy Awards in 2017,” recalled Cakmak, highlighting some of the many success stories from Saudi Arabia.




Jory Al Maiman and Lujain wearing the Hindamme embroidered jacket. Photographed by Ekleel Al Fares

But despite growing interest and support from events like Arab Fashion Week, a lot of brands struggle with a lack of access to capital and resources necessary in a functioning fashion ecosystem. Cakmak hopes to change that in his new role.

“A brand can only succeed if they are able to couple creativity with a sound business strategy,” he explained, adding “I am working closely with the Fashion Commission team and the Ministry of Culture to ensure we are creating the right infrastructure to develop the industry. First and foremost, we want to support fashion entrepreneurs with the right regulatory frameworks relevant to the fashion industry. As we assess the local fashion ecosystem, we are identifying areas for new job opportunities and fashion businesses that can be created locally to support a growing fashion industry in Saudi Arabia.”

Cakmak received a bachelor’s degree at the Middle East Technical University in Turkey in 1997. 

His career in the fashion industry began in 2000, serving as Gap Inc.’s senior manager of social responsibility. After eight years, he relocated to London and was hired by European conglomerate Kering to lead sustainability strategies for the luxury group’s brands — including Gucci, Saint Laurent and Balenciaga — as its first director of corporate sustainability. 




In January, Saudi designer Ahmed Alwohaibi staged the kingdom's first-ever independant fashion show in Riyadh. Supplied

He was appointed as dean of fashion at Parsons School of Design in 2016, where he made it his mission to educate the next generation of fashion creatives about the importance of environmental and social responsibility.

With his 15-year-strong background in sustainability, Cakmak hopes to make the topic a key focus in his new role in Saudi. 

“As the Fashion Commission, we are keen to bring the latest tools for measuring and reporting on the sustainability impact to local brands and share knowledge on how to build more sustainable business models for the fashion industry,” he shared. 

“Made in KSA will be a key focus to create short supply chains where we can encourage on-demand production and mass customization to minimize returns and left-over inventory for the industry,” he added of his strategy to minimize the impact of the fashion supply chain in the Kingdom.

As for his long-term goals for Saudi’s fashion sector, Cakmak just wants to position the country as a key player in the global fashion industry.

“In collaboration with the Fashion Commission team, Ministry of Culture and all other relevant government entities, I hope to put in place the incentive and infrastructure to achieve this goal,” he said.

“I have worked with fashion businesses all across the globe and have a good understanding of the opportunities and challenges they face. I also have a good view on the latest developments in the industry, and access to a global network of experts who we can tap into to shape the future of fashion in the Kingdom. I am really excited to be a catalyst to bring such positive change to the country.”


Qatar highlights Arab, South Asian and African films at the Venice Biennale

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Qatar highlights Arab, South Asian and African films at the Venice Biennale

  • Highlights include Ali Cherri’s “The Dam” (2022), charting the story of a Darfuri seasonal worker from Sudan

VENICE: For its second showing during the Venice Biennale, Qatar is staging the exhibition “Your Ghosts Are Mine: Expanded Cinemas, Amplified Voices” that takes a profound, in-depth look at the last decade of film and video art by Arab, South Asian and African filmmakers.

While Qatar has yet to have its own national pavilion, its exhibition occupies the 459-year-old Palazzo Cavalli-Franchetti on the Grand Canal. The works on show are drawn from the collections of Mathaf: Arab Museum of Contemporary Art, the Doha Film Institute and the forthcoming Art Mill Museum (scheduled to open in 2030). It is divided into ten galleries, each comprising films and video art according to a specific theme such as ruins, women’s voices, borders, exile and deserts and is curated by Paris-based Matthieu Orlean, a film and video expert. The exhibition will run until November 2024.

“Film is very relevant to our institutions and is an important part of our collections,” Zeina Arida, Director of Mathaf: Arab Museum of Modern Arab Art in Doha, told Arab News.

“It is a great way to document our contemporary times,” she added. “Film is also a great way of to share who we are and what we are going through, what we as societies from these less represented countries are living and the issues we are facing.”

In-depth storytelling can be found in the films on view by Shirin Neshat and Shoja Azari, Larissa Sansour, Fares Fayyad, Ali Cherri, Shaima Al-Tamimi, Ramata-Toulaye Sy, Hassan Khan and Sophia Al-Maria, among others.

In a documentary and largely journalistic style, many of the works shed light on current events and issues not often covered in mainstream media, including the now one-year old conflict in Sudan or migrants seeking new homes such as those captured in the film by Yemeni East African filmmaker Shaima Al-Tamini who charted the journey of her family from Kenya and Zanibar to the UAE.

“I was looking at movies that were different from the rest — that take a risk of telling their own story in a specific way,” curator Orlean told Arab News. “The filmmakers of these films are foreigners in their own environment because they are capturing events, whether personal or collective, that many people don’t see even in the news. Many deal with the themes of migration, social differences and exile.”

The works on view showcase both long and short films. A few highlights include Ali Cherri’s “The Dam” (2022), charting the story of a Darfuri seasonal worker from Sudan who works during the night to create a mud-brick monument. The film is a political fable that tells of the power of imagination against the backdrop of the Sudanese revolution. There is also Qatari artist Sophia Al-Maria’s well-known work “Black Friday” (2016) and British-born Egyptian multimedia artist Hassan Khan’s “Jewel” (2010) featuring a luminescent fish in dark waters followed by two men dancing to Arabic music.

“‘Jewel’ was triggered by a moment witnessed on the street in Cairo in 2006 — two men dancing around a speaker with raw, brutal and beautiful music blaring out,” Khan told Arab News. “It took four years before I could finally produce the work for Mathaf's opening exhibition in 2010 and by then so much was bubbling around us that it seemed to channel something real. Imagine a one second flickering daydream slowed down and stretched into six intense minutes. It is about our deepest sources — history, culture, emotion — and how we communicate the alien that lives inside all of us.”


The Eurovision Song Contest kicked off with pop and protests as the war in Gaza casts a shadow

Updated 34 min 19 sec ago
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The Eurovision Song Contest kicked off with pop and protests as the war in Gaza casts a shadow

  • Israel is a Eurovision participant, and demonstrations are planned on Thursday and Saturday

MALMO, Sweden: Competition in the 68th Eurovision Song Contest kicked off Tuesday in Sweden, with the war in Gaza casting a shadow over the sequin-spangled pop extravaganza.
Performers representing countries across Europe and beyond took the stage in the first of two semifinals in the Swedish city of Malmo. It and a second semifinal on Thursday will winnow a field of 37 nations to 26 who will compete in Saturday’s final against a backdrop of both parties and protests.
Ten of the 15 acts performing Tuesday were voted through to the final by viewers. They include Croatian singer-songwriter Baby Lasagna, whose infectious electro number “Rim Tim Tagi Dim” is the current favorite to win, and Ukrainian duo alyona alyona and Jerry Heil, flying the flag for their war-battered nation with the anthemic “Teresa & Maria.”
Also making the cut were goth-style Irish singer Bambie Thug, 1990s-loving Finnish prankster Windows95man and Portuguese crooner Iolanda. Iceland, Azerbaijan, Poland, Moldova and Australia were eliminated.
Other bookmakers’ favorites who will perform Thursday include Swiss singer Nemo, Italian TikTok star Angelina Mango and the Netherlands’ Joost Klein with his playful pop-rap song “Europapa.”
Security is tight in the Swedish city, which expects an influx of some 100,000 Eurovision fans, along with tens of thousands of pro-Palestinian protesters. Israel is a Eurovision participant, and demonstrations are planned on Thursday and Saturday against the Israel-Hamas war, which has left almost 35,000 Palestinians dead.
Israel’s government warned its citizens of a “tangible concern” Israelis could be targeted for attack in Malmo during the contest.
Organizers told Israel to change the lyrics of its entry, originally titled “October Rain” in apparent reference to Hamas’ cross-border Oct. 7 attack that killed some 1,200 Israelis and triggered the war. The song was renamed “Hurricane” and Israeli singer Eden Golan was allowed to remain in the contest.
Jean Philip De Tender, deputy director-general of Eurovision organizer the European Broadcasting Union, told Sky News that banning Israel “would have been a political decision, and as such (one) which we cannot take.”
Police from across Sweden have been drafted in for Eurovision week, along with reinforcements from neighboring Denmark and Norway.
Sweden’s official terrorism threat level remains “high,” the second-highest rung on a five-point scale, after a string of public desecrations of the Qur’an last year sparked angry demonstrations across Muslim countries and threats from militant groups. The desecrations were not related to the music event.
Eurovision’s motto is “United by Music,” but national rifts and political divisions often cloud the contest despite organizers’ efforts to keep politics out.
Flags and signs are banned, apart from participants’ national flags and the rainbow pride flag. That means Palestinian flags will be barred inside the Malmo Arena contest venue.

Eric Saade, a former Swedish Eurovision contestant, had a keffiyeh, a headscarf associated with the Palestinian cause, tied around his wrist. (AFP)

Some musicians seem determined to make a point. Eric Saade, a former Swedish Eurovision contestant who performed as part of Tuesday’s show, had a keffiyeh, a headscarf associated with the Palestinian cause, tied around his wrist as he sang.
Afterwards, organizers said in a statement that “we regret that Eric Saade chose to compromise the non-political nature of the event.”
Performers are feeling political pressure, with some saying they have been inundated with messages on social media urging them to boycott the event.
“I am being accused, if I don’t boycott Eurovision, of being an accomplice to genocide in Gaza,” Germany’s contestant, Isaak, said in an interview published by broadcaster ZDF. He said he did not agree.
“We are meeting up to make music, and when we start shutting people out categorically, there will be fewer and fewer of us,” he said. “At some point there won’t be an event anymore.”
One person who knows how Eurovision unity can collide with bitter reality is singer Manizha Sangin, who represented Russia at the contest in 2021. The country was expelled the following year over its invasion of Ukraine.
Manizha, who performs under her first name, spoke out against the war. As a result, her performances were canceled in Russia and her music banned from public spaces. The singer remains in Russia but has found it all but impossible to work.
“People are afraid to work with me here because they’re afraid to have consequences after, problems after that,” she said.
Despite the difficulties, Manizha has recorded a single, “Candlelight,” which she is releasing on Wednesday as “a message of hope.”
“Music cannot stop war,” she said. But “what music can do is inspire people.”
Manizha thinks Russia will one day return to the Eurovision fold – but not soon.
“Maybe next generation,” she said. “But for now, relationships are too complicated. And then that makes me sad, you know, because that’s why people are not hearing each other. Because we are separated from each other. And the thing, is music should unite.”


Luxury jewelry brands dazzle at Riyadh showcase

Updated 07 May 2024
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Luxury jewelry brands dazzle at Riyadh showcase

  • Larsen said that House of GOL specializes in high-end jewelry and many people buy it to reflect their heritage and to pass it down to future generations

RIYADH: Saudi International Luxury Week, which is taking place in Riyadh until May 9, showcases a selection of fine jewelry from around the world.

The event offers a unique opportunity for Saudi clients to acquire exclusive and sophisticated pieces.

FerriFirenze, an Italian brand, is gaining significant acceptance among Saudi clients during the event. (Supplied)

House of GOL, a New York-based brand known for its colorful diamonds, has shown a rare pink diamond at the event.

Anna Larsen, head of business development at House of GOL, has been visiting Saudi Arabia for the past three years to meet clients.

Maitraya is an Indian brand that specializes in Khaleeji and Saudi pearls, led by Sanghvi Maitarya, the seventh-generation representative of his family business. (Supplied)

Larsen said that House of GOL specializes in high-end jewelry and many people buy it to reflect their heritage and to pass it down to future generations.

The brand had previously visited the ZAH creative hub in Riyadh and continued its tours across the Kingdom. House of GOL's participation in the luxury week was in collaboration with Clea Nasr, ZAH's head of marketing.

Maitraya is an Indian brand that specializes in Khaleeji and Saudi pearls, led by Sanghvi Maitarya, the seventh-generation representative of his family business. (Supplied)

"We're here today with House of GOL to support them at a luxury jewelry event, following our earlier private event at ZAH. We support local and international designers through all PR and marketing activities, creating targeted strategies to drive exposure and growth, especially in Saudi Arabia," Nasr said.

The brand stands out by involving its clients in the jewelry creation process, hand drawing and painting the designs and then allowing clients to keep the drawings, adding a personal touch to the design experience.

House of GOL, a New York-based brand that specializes in colorful diamonds, brought a rare pink diamond to the exhibition. The brand had previously visited ZAH Creative Hub in Riyadh and continued its tour across the Kingdom during Saudi International Luxury Week. (Supplied)

Another standout brand at the event is Maitraya, an Indian company specializing in pure Gulf pearls, including khaleeji and Saudi pearls.

The brand is led by Sanghvi Maitarya, a seventh-generation representative of his family’s pearl business.

House of GOL, a New York-based brand that specializes in colorful diamonds, brought a rare pink diamond to the exhibition. The brand had previously visited ZAH Creative Hub in Riyadh and continued its tour across the Kingdom during Saudi International Luxury Week. (Supplied)

“My great-grandfather used to travel by boat,” said Maitarya. “This was before the Second World War and the discovery of oil. The oyster industry had declined and no longer produced these kinds of pearls. These are Saudi natural lulu pearls.”

He said that the pearls were no longer found in the Gulf, adding: “We collected them from grandmothers, maharajas, royal families, and other sources around the world.”

FerriFirenze, an Italian brand, is also impressing Saudi clients at the event.

Giulia Lina Callegari, owner of FerriFirenze, said: “We came to Saudi for the first time five years ago. We’ve seen the changes, the enthusiasm, the projects, and we’re always excited to meet local ladies who know jewelry, appreciate style, and often become our guests in Florence.”

FerriFirenze is a family business that began 10 years ago, and Callegari added: “We create jewelry that moves, physically moves when touched, is flexible, and so on. This style of jewelry can only be made by hand in Italy.”

 


Macklemore shares teaser for new song in support of Gazans

Updated 08 May 2024
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Macklemore shares teaser for new song in support of Gazans

DUBAI: American rapper Macklemore is set to release a new song this week in support of Palestine.

Titled “Hind’s Hall,” the track honors Hind Rajab, the 6-year-old Palestinian girl who was killed by Israeli soldiers in Gaza while waiting to be rescued.

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by BEN (@macklemore)

 

Drawing its inspiration from the global student protests, the singer released a teaser of the track on his Instagram feed and said that all proceeds from its sale would be donated to UNRWA.

“The people, they won’t leave / What is threatening about divesting and wanting peace? / The problem isn’t the protests, it’s what they’re protesting / It goes against what our country is funding / Block the barricade until Palestine is free,” he sings.

“What you willing to risk? / What you willing to give? / What if you were in Gaza? / What if those were your kids? You’d want the world to stand up / And the students finally did.”

The full song has yet to be released on streaming platforms.


Gigi Hadid, Imaan Hammam turn heads at the Met Gala

Updated 07 May 2024
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Gigi Hadid, Imaan Hammam turn heads at the Met Gala

NEW YORK: A-listers at Monday’s Met Gala in New York included US Dutch Palestinian catwalk star Gigi Hadid, Dutch Moroccan Egyptian model Imaan Hammam, Jennifer Lopez, Zendaya and a parade of others dressed in a swirl of flora and fauna looks on a green-tinged carpet lined by live foliage.

Hadid brought the drama in a look by the drama king himself, Thom Browne. Her white gown was adorned with 2.8 million microbeads with yellow flowers and green thorns. She was high glam in a wavy bob and crimson lips.

Hammam donned a two-piece ensemble. (Getty Images)

Hammam donned a two-piece ensemble — her outfit featured a cape, drawing inspiration from Swarovski's Gema collection, and a satin column skirt adorned with gold crystals.

Crafting the cape was an intricate process spanning 14 days. The cape incorporated over 3,000 crystals in six cuts and five vibrant hues while the skirt boasted over 100,000 crystals. 

Lopez went for silver leaves in a second-skin gown by Schiaparelli. (Getty Images)

Meanwhile, Lopez went for silver leaves in a second-skin gown by Schiaparelli and Zendaya was all vamp and fantasy in a rare double appearance on the steps of The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Lopez went with Tiffany & Co. diamonds, including a stunning bird motif necklace with a diamond of over 20 carats at its center.

Zendaya was all vamp and fantasy in a rare double appearance on the steps of The Metropolitan Museum of Art. (Getty Images)

Zendaya put on her fashion face in peacock hues of blue and green, with a head piece to match and leaf accents. The look was Maison Margiela by John Gallliano. She walked again to close the carpet in black Givenchy Haute Couture gown also by Galliano with a head piece stuffed with flowers by Alexander McQueen.

Mindy Kaling is sure to make the best-dressed lists in sand-colored swirls that towered over her head at the back. Her look was by Indian couturier Gaurav Gupta.

Mindy Kaling is sure to make the best-dressed lists in sand-colored swirls that towered over her head at the back. (Getty Images)

Penelope Cruz, meanwhile, went goth in black by Chanel. It had a bustier top and a Sleeping Beauty-like off-shoulder silhouette. There was another Sleeping Beauty-ish guest: Kendall Jenner in a Givenchy look done by Alexander McQueen in 1999.

Kendall’s sister, Kylie Jenner, was in an Oscar de la Renta low-cut strapless look, a white bloom in her clicked-back updo and a train behind. Older sister Kim Kardashian tightly covered up her silver corset look with a leaf motif by Maison Margiela with a gray sweater.