NEW YORK: The hijab and abaya dazzled center stage on the New York runway Thursday as up-and-coming Indonesian designers kicked off an increasingly diverse fashion week, hoping to change prejudices in the West.
“We’re not oppressed and we just want to show the world that we still can be beautiful, stylish with our hijab on,” said designer Dian Pelangi, 26, who has 4.8 million followers on Instagram.
She was one of five Indonesian luxury ready-to-wear designers, joined by an accessories designer, who presented collections at the show “Indonesian Diversity” — held opposite a special needs school in Chelsea on the first day of fashion week.
Two of the five fell into the category “modest fashion” — in this instance designed specifically for the affluent, modern, religiously observant Muslim woman — and featured models all of whom covered their hair Islamic style.
Pelangi was one, Vivi Zubedi, 30, the other. Making her New York fashion week debut, Zubedi felt moved to come partly because of Donald Trump, who has sought to restrict immigration from certain Muslim majority countries.
“Mr. President, I love your country and also I love your people, and we will not (do) anything to you or your people. We are all the same, it’s about humanity,” the Jakarta-based designer told AFP, overcome with emotion.
Instead of the usual stick thin, white model types, the front row featured guests dressed to the nines in hijabs and Chanel bags, black women dressed to accentuate every curve, Latinas, and guests from across Asia and the Middle East.
Pelangi’s elegant collection was a riot of colorful Indonesian materials, Batik print and tie dye — covering women from head to toe in full skirts, wide pants, loose fitting jackets and rich brocade.
Covering the models hair were statement scarfs wrapped over and under raised head pieces as aristocratic as a noble woman’s in Medieval or Renaissance Europe.
Pelangi said inspiration came from the bestselling book “Humans of New York” by US photographer Brandon Stanton who documents the diversity of the 8.5 million people who live in the city.
Zubedi’s look was more conservative still — her signature abaya — the loose flowing head to toe black garment obligatory in Saudi Arabia and adopted by some of the most strictly observant Muslim women elsewhere.
Sewn onto the back of her colorful gowns were “Makkah, Madinah, Jannah” — two sites of Muslim pilgrimage and the Arabic word for paradise — and the phrase “all colors matter.”
“I love the US every much and I have a lot of clients here,” Zubedi told AFP. “Hijab is beautiful, we are all still human no matter what religion you are. We are still the same.”
Diversity is a buzz word this season as the fashion establishment makes known its disgust with the Trump administration. Models of all sizes and colors are more prominent and social media is challenging the monopoly once set by editors.
Thursday’s show comes a year after Indonesia’s Anniesa Hasibuan broke new ground by staging the first New York runway show featuring models all wearing the hijab.
‘Hijabs beautiful’, Indonesians tell NY fashion week
‘Hijabs beautiful’, Indonesians tell NY fashion week
Saudi designer Mohammed Ashi to create Riyadh Air cabin crew uniforms
DUBAI: Saudi designer Mohammed Ashi, founder of the Paris-based label Ashi Studio, is set to design the inaugural fashion line for the cabin crew of the Kingdom’s new airline, Riyadh Air, which is on track to make its maiden flight in 2025.
Ashi is set to unveil the uniform design concepts and share his inspiration for the creations at Haute Couture Week in Paris from June 22-27. The full uniform launch is scheduled for later this year.
Riyadh Air’s CEO Tony Douglas said: “The cabin crew fashion line is one of the first things our guests will see when they board our aircraft in 2025, and we are confident that Ashi’s unique designs will leave a lasting impression, ensuring the experience lives long in their memory after they have landed.
“It’s such an honor to collaborate with Riyadh Air to design the airline’s first ever cabin crew fashion line,” the designer said in a released statement. “The airline will play an important role in the future of Saudi Arabia by making Riyadh one of the world’s key destinations.
“I am delighted to be part of a project so significant for our nation. It’s an exciting time to be in Saudi Arabia and to witness another Saudi brand going global,” he added. “I am looking forward to sharing the cabin crew fashion line with the world, and to seeing the Riyadh Air team wearing my creations when it takes its maiden flight in 2025.”
Ashi became the first couturier from the Gulf region to join the Fédération de la Haute Couture in Paris as a guest member in 2023. He also became the first designer from the Gulf to be included in the BoF 500 list, the Business of Fashion’s index of the people shaping the fashion industry in 2023.
Ashi’s creations have been worn by the likes of Beyonce, Lady Gaga, Jennifer Hudson, Kylie Minogue, Penélope Cruz, Deepika Padukone, Sonam Kapoor, Queen Rania of Jordan and more.
Supermodel Bella Hadid celebrates Palestinian symbols, designers on social media
DUBAI: US Dutch Palestinian supermodel Bella Hadid on Wednesday took to Instagram to explain the symbolism behind the keffiyeh print and spotlight designers who have “highlighted the Palestinian cause over the years.”
The catwalk star, daughter of real estate mogul Mohamed Hadid and US Dutch model Yolanda Hadid, made a powerful fashion statement on the sidelines of the Cannes Film Festival on May 23 by wearing a red-and-white dress inspired by the keffiyeh. The dress was designed by US designers Michael Sears and Hushi Mortezaie in 2001.
This week, the model shared pictures of the dress with her 61.1 million followers on Instagram, describing the ensemble as “a beautiful way to represent the history, labor of love, resilience, and most importantly the art of historic Palestinian embroidery.”
She then explained the meanings behind the patterns of the Palestinian keffiyeh, noting that they symbolize various themes.
The olive leaves represent “strength, resilience and perseverance,” she wrote.
“The larger part of the of the keffiyeh is the fishnet pattern which resembles the relationship between the Palestinian fisherman and the sea. It symbolizes abundance and grace,” she explained. “To many of us, the sea also means freedom, especially to Palestinians living in the West Bank (who) have no access to the sea due to restricted movement.”
Hadid added that the sea waves resemble the “strength and resilience” of those who “persevered after 73 years under military occupation and oppression.”
Some commenters have claimed that the sea waves actually represent olive leaves, which Hadid considers an “important symbol.” However, after speaking with Judeh Hirbawi, the founder of the Hirbawi Factory fabric manufacturer in Hebron, she says she learned that the pattern indeed represents sea waves.
The bold lines “represent the trade routes going through Palestine, which played a vital role in carving the history and rich and diverse culture of our communities,” the supermodel added.
Her post also included a heartfelt message about her heritage.
“Palestine on my mind, in my blood and on my heart (sic),” she said. "Always… while I still have to go to work, even through this horror, to wear our culture makes me a proud Palestinian and I want the world to continue to see Palestine, wherever we go.”
Adele wears Elie Saab gown at Las Vegas concert
DUBAI: British singer Adele showed off a gown by Lebanese designer Elie Saab during her Las Vegas residency over the weekend.
The Grammy-winning singer performed her 42nd “Weekends with Adele” concert in a sleek black, off-shoulder gown with a deep V-neck.
“Captivating elegance, @adele graces the stage in Vegas in (a) … custom made Haute Couture gown,” read a post on the official Instagram page of Elie Saab.
Adele has previously chosen other designers from the region to wear during her residency, including Zuhair Murad and Georges Hobeika.
The residency is set to conclude in November this year.
Georgina Rodriguez collaborates with Faces Middle East beauty store
DUBAI: Argentine model Georgina Rodriguez took to social media to share images from her recent visit to beauty store Faces in Riyadh Park Mall.
The social media sensation – partner to football legend Cristiano Ronaldo – posted a reel on Instagram featuring moments from her trip to the store, captioning the post, “Beauty time with @facesmiddleeast,” along with a pink heart emoji.
Rodriguez can be seen getting an analysis with Faces’ skincare diagnosis machine and trying on several of the store’s products.
Rodriguez also took a moment to congratulate Ronaldo on Instagram Stories as the Portuguese footballer – who plays for Saudi football club Al-Nassr – set a new record for goals scored in a Saudi Pro League season.
The 39-year-old took his tally of goals scored to 35 after he netted two goals against Al-Ittihad on Monday night.
Sofia Carson shows off Elie Saab gown on the red carpet
DUBAI: US actress Sofia Carson showed off a gown by Lebanese designer Elie Saab at the closing ceremony of the 77th annual Cannes Film Festival.
The star, who has showed off Lebanese labels on multiple red carpets in the past, opted for an olive-toned ensemble from the designer’s Spring/ Summer 2024 couture collection.
Styled by Erin Walsh, Carson posed for photos on the red carpet in the look that featured a draped skirt and embellishments on the neckline.
The latest red carpet appearance proves Carson is something of a fan of Lebanon’s couturiers — In 2022 the “Purple Hearts” actress was spotted in New York wearing an ensemble by Zuhair Murad. Carson attended the Global Citizen Festival in a coordinating look from Murad’s Resort 2023 collection. The outfit featured an embellished crop top and mini skirt set with matching thigh-high leather boots.
In late 2023, the actress cut an elegant figure in a Zuhair Murad gown at the second annual Cam for a Cause event in memory of her former co-star Cameron Boyce, who died at the age of 20 due to an epileptic seizure.
Fast forward to 2024 and the now-concluded Cannes Film Festival has played host to a number of Arab-created looks.
Saudi designer Eman Al-Ajlan dressed British model and TV presenter Leomie Anderson in a structured look featuring a mini dress with a net-like skirt fitted underneath at the 2024 amfAR Gala in Cannes.
A few celebrities opted for gowns by Murad at the same event, including German model Toni Garrn, sports commentator Alex Scott and Brazilian model Thayna Soares.
Meanwhile, German model Kim Dammer dazzled on the red carpet in a glamorous halter-neck black gown, intricately embroidered with geometric shapes by Lebanese couturier Rami Kadi. Lebanese designer Nicolas Jebran was championed by Turkish actress Hande Ercel, who wore a black gown adorned with red and blue beads.
Egyptian actress Yasmine Sabri was also in attendance, wearing a sparkling silver dress by Lebanese designer Jean Pierre Khoury. The dress featured thousands of mirrored tube beads hand-sewn onto a corseted silhouette, according to the fashion house.
