Islamic festival of Eid Al-Adha brings out sartorial best in Pakistan

1 / 3
Generation’s Eid collections have been a mainstay of the high-street mega-retailer since opening its doors in 1983. A model wears an outfit from their 2019 Eid al-Adha collection “Angrakel.” (Photo courtesy: Generation/Instagram)
2 / 3
Hira Ali’s Royâ collection for Eid is formal enough that customers can carry their looks into wedding season. A model in an ensemble called “Coco” from Ali’s Eid al-Adha 2019 collection. (Photo courtesy: Hira Ali/Instagram)
3 / 3
A model wears a periwinkle blue collection from fashion house Mahgul. Designer Mahgul Kabir’s collection focusses on the occasion as well as Eid falling in summer months. (Photo courtesy: Mahgul/Instagram)
Updated 13 August 2019
0

Islamic festival of Eid Al-Adha brings out sartorial best in Pakistan

  • Weather plays a significant role in crafting Eid collections, Pakistani designers say
  • Straddling to be uniquely traditional and innovative, fashion houses launch signature Eid collection

ISLAMABAD: The annual Islamic festivals of Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha bring out the sartorial best in Pakistan. Celebrations that often begin at the mosque call for an ensemble that is respectful of the occasion but also ups the ante for your daily wear. Arab News spoke to some members of Pakistan’s fashion fraternity on how they craft Eid capsule collections twice a year and the alignment these collections have with their brands.
“For Eid you really have to straddle to be traditional and innovative. We have been designing Eid collections ever since the brand’s inception in 1983,” Khadija Rehman, the creative director at Generation, told Arab News. “Eid was the biggest event of the season before lawn mania came into existence. Eid was a time when everyone had to go out and get a new outfit.”
“When designing an Eid collection, you must keep in mind the changing weather: If the festival comes in high summer, the colors will be different; if it comes in monsoon, they will have a different touch. You don’t want to go into shaadi wear. You want to have some cotton, with a bit of ghota, tilla, or some kind of shine. The element of shine is important. As a brand you have to be clear about your identity.”
The weather was something that all the brands and designers said played a critical role in how they designed for the holiday.
“[What we keep in mind is] simply the nature of the occasion,” Mahgul Kabir of design house Mahgul told Arab News. “Eid is a festive occasion which happens to fall during a very hot period and one has to design primarily day time occasion wear.”
“We love bringing in new designs every Eid keeping in mind the season, the weather and our color palette,” said Yasin. “It changes every Eid and we like bringing something new yet remaining true to our design aesthetic.”
There was also a lot of consideration by the designers for the clothing being formal appropriate without veering entirely into the wedding territory.
Kamiar Rokni, who helms his eponymous label The House of Kamiar Rokni, is known for his ornate work and drool-inducing bridal collections for which earlier this year he won a Lux Style Award. For him, Eid collections need to honor the day but veer a bit away from his bridal offerings. “[It] has to have a sense of occasion, it has to be formal and special but not too heavy as its not wedding wear. I keep in mind the time of year and the different age groups that need to be dressed.”
Hira Ali, however, made her Eid collection wedding adjacent and weather appropriate.
“Eid has been coming in summers, so you have to consider what kind of material you use while designing an Eid collection,” Ali told Arab News. “The signature Hira Ali aesthetics are consistent through all our designs whether it be our bridals or Eid collection, our formal wear or western wear, making our pieces adaptable to wherever you want to wear them.”


India defends blocking politicians from visiting Kashmir

Updated 25 August 2019
0

India defends blocking politicians from visiting Kashmir

  • If everything is normal, asks opposition’s Rahul Gandhi, why are Congress leaders not allowed in Jammu and Kashmir
  • Hurriyat Conference has released its first official comment since the clampdown, calling for locals to resist New Delhi’s move 

NEW DELHI: Authorities on Sunday defended blocking opposition Indian politicians from visiting Muslim-majority Kashmir, saying it was to “avoid controversy” weeks after stripping the restive region of its autonomy and imposing a major clampdown.
India’s Hindu-nationalist government has been criticized by the main opposition Congress party over the contentious move on August 5 that brings Kashmir — which has waged an armed rebellion against Indian control since 1989 — under its direct rule.
The region remains under strict lockdown with movement limited and many phone and Internet services cut, although authorities say they have been easing restrictions gradually.
Former Congress president Rahul Gandhi, still a key figure in India as a scion of the powerful Nehru-Gandhi political dynasty, was earlier invited by local governor Satya Pal Malik to visit Kashmir.
But a video released by Congress showed Gandhi questioning officials about why he was stopped from entering Kashmir’s main city of Srinagar at the airport on Saturday.
“The governor has said I’m invited. He has invited me so I have come but you’re saying I can’t go,” he said.
“And the government is saying everything is OK, everything is normal. So if everything is normal, why are we not allowed out? It is a bit surprising.”
Regional police chief Dilbagh Singh told AFP police supported the decision.
“In an environment that is getting to normalcy, we didn’t want any controversial statement from anyone. That’s why they were asked to return from the airport itself,” Singh said.
Malik told the ANI news agency he invited Gandhi out of goodwill but that he then politicized the issue.
The controversy came as key separatist group Hurriyat Conference, a coalition of local political parties, released its first official comments since the clampdown and called for locals to “resist at this critical juncture” New Delhi’s move.
“Each and every person must face the naked Indian brutality with courage ... People should organize peaceful protests and demonstrations in their areas of residence,” top separatist leader Syed Ali Geelani said in a statement obtained by AFP.
The Hurriyat Conference, which supports Kashmir’s right to choose whether it wants to be part of India or Pakistan, added that Pakistan and the wider Muslim community should “come forward to ... help the besieged people.”
The call came as India’s home affairs ministry refuted a report by India’s News18 television on Sunday that the region was running out of lifesaving medicines, saying supplies were “slightly higher than the monthly average.”