JERUSALEM: The traditional brightly embroidered dress of Palestinian women known as the “thobe” was not the type of garment one would expect to become a pop political symbol.
Now it’s gaining prominence as a softer expression of Palestinian nationalism, competing even with the classic keffiyeh — the headscarf donned by young stone-throwing Palestinian men protesting Israel’s occupation.
The robe, adorned with elaborate hand-stitched embroidery, requires months of grueling labor. Some thobes fetch thousands of dollars. The traditional textiles call to mind a bygone era of Palestinian peasant women sewing on a break from the fields.
Last month, Rashida Tlaib proudly wore her mother’s thobe to her historic swearing-in as the first female Palestinian American member of Congress, inspiring masses of women around the world, especially in the Palestinian territories, to tweet photos of themselves in their ancestral robes.
“The historic thobe conjures an ideal of pure and untouched Palestine, before the occupation,” said Rachel Dedman, curator of a recent exhibit at the Palestinian Museum focused on the evolution of Palestinian embroidery. “It’s more explicitly tied to history and heritage than politics. That’s what makes it a brilliant symbol.”
The Palestinian thobe traces its history to the early 19th century, when embroidery was confined to the villages.
Richly decorated dresses marked milestones in women’s lives: onset of puberty, marriage, motherhood. The designs varied from village to village — special three-dimensional stitching for the upper class of Bethlehem, big pockets for the nomadic Bedouin women, orange branch motifs for the orchard-famous city of Jaffa, said Maha Saca, director of the Palestinian Heritage Center in Bethlehem.
Thobe patterns also expressed women’s different social positions: red for brides, blue for widows, blue with multi-colored stitches for widows considering remarriage.
While Arab women across the region have worn hand-made dresses for centuries, the thobe has taken on a distinctly Palestinian character, particularly since the establishment of Israel in 1948. Hundreds of thousands of Palestinians either fled or were expelled from their homes during the war surrounding Israel’s creation. Many took only their dresses with them into the diaspora, Saca added.
The war, which Palestinians call their “nakba,” or catastrophe, transformed the thobe.
“Suddenly, in the face of dispossession and cultural appropriation by Israelis, embroidery became an urgent task,” Dedman said. “The dress was taken up and politicized.”
Over decades of conflict that has claimed thousands of lives on both sides, Palestinian nationalism has taken on many forms.
In the early days of Israel’s establishment, it was associated with calls for Israel’s destruction and deadly attacks. Armed struggle later gave way to calls for the establishment of a Palestinian state in the West Bank, Gaza Strip and east Jerusalem — lands captured by Israel in 1967. Peace talks have been interrupted by spasms of violence, and for the past decade, a deep freeze in negotiations.
Today, the internationally recognized autonomy government of the Palestinian Authority, which administers parts of the West Bank, continues to seek a two-state solution with Israel. The Hamas militant group, which seized the Gaza Strip in 2007, still seeks Israel’s destruction, while many Palestinians, particularly the younger generation, now talk of a single binational state with Israel in which they would enjoy full equal rights.
Along the way, the thobe has grown in popularity and evolved, with dress designs reflecting history’s many dramas.
During the first Palestinian intifada, or uprising, in the 1980s, the thobe bloomed with guns, doves and flowers. When Israeli soldiers confiscated Palestinian flags at protests, women wove forbidden national maps and colors into their dresses, according to the Palestinian museum exhibit.
Now, Palestinian women of all social classes wear thobes to assert national pride at weddings and special occasions.
“It’s a way of defending our national identity,” Saca said.
The care, toil, and skill that go into making a thobe prevent the garment from becoming everyday streetwear — or protest-wear. But cheaper, mass-produced versions of the dress have sprouted up.
“A woman typically has one thobe to wear on occasions throughout her life — it’s very expensive and impractical,” said Maysoun Abed, director of a thobe exhibit in the West Bank city of Al-Bireh, near Ramallah. “But demand for the thobe still runs high as a way of expressing patriotism.”
Although the robe shares potent patriotic subtext and roots in peasant life with the black-and-white checkered kaffiyeh — made famous by Palestinian leader Yasser Arafat — the thobe is infused with nostalgic, almost mythical associations.
“Embroidery evokes the timeless connection of Palestinians to the land,” Dedman said. “It’s a soft image, referencing a deep past with which people have positive associations.”
Young Palestinian women, especially those in the diaspora, are adapting the ancestral dresses to modern tastes and trends. Girls are asking for shorter and less embroidered versions, said Rajaa Ghazawneh, a thobe designer in the West Bank town of Al-Bireh.
Natalie Tahhan, a designer based in east Jerusalem, produces capes from digital prints that replicate traditional embroidery stitches, “connecting tradition with what is new and stylish.”
Tlaib’s now-viral Palestinian thobe, which the Michigan Democrat called “an unapologetic display of the fabric of the people in this country” and said it evoked memories of her mother’s West Bank village, rekindled enthusiasm worldwide about the dress.
“Rashida has become a model for Palestinian women everywhere — a strong woman proud of her national identity who can reach high,” said Saca.
Tahhan agreed, saying that “Tlaib’s thobe spread a beautiful picture of Palestine, when usually the media only show the wars.”
For Palestinian women born abroad, and refugees barred from visiting their ancestral homes in what is now Israel, thobes are a tangible connection to the land and a way of keeping their culture alive.
“These dresses are our link between the past and future,” Saca said.
Iconic Palestinian robe fashions a new political symbol
Iconic Palestinian robe fashions a new political symbol
- The Palestinian thobe traces its history to the early 19th century, when embroidery was confined to the villages
- Young Palestinian women are adapting the ancestral dresses to modern tastes and trends
Versace, CH Carolina Herrera collaborate with Jessica Kahawaty for Ramadan campaigns
DUBAI: Australian Lebanese model Jessica Kahawaty took to social media to share images from her collaboration with Italian luxury label Versace for the month of Ramadan, days after the influencer worked on a Ramadan campaign with New York-based label CH Carolina Herrera.
The model and restauranteur — she founded Dubai’s Mama Rita eatery alongside her mother — shared a series of images promoting Versace’s Ramadan edit with her 1.5 million Instagram followers. Kahawaty was pictured in a pink floor-length dress with bell sleeves that boasted a neckline adorned with intricate pink, white and silver beads and crystals. Completing the look, Kahawaty is seen clutching a matching mini pink embellished purse while her voluminous brunette locks were styled in a 90s blowout.
“Ramadan with Versace,” she wrote, sharing closeup images of her look.
It is not the first time the model has worked with Versace. Last year, she teamed up with the brand for a campaign for Eid Al-Fitr.
“I’m finally a Versace girl,” she wrote at the time. “I’ve been wanting to work with Versace for years.”
“It’s a brand that speaks to my 90s baby self, a brand that never gave into fads or trends, one that remained true to its Italian ethos of family, togetherness, heritage and authenticity,” she added.
Released at the outset of Ramadan, CH Carolina Herrera’s Ramadan campaign starring Kahawaty features a curated edit of modest wear from the label, combining distinctive patterns and vibrant color schemes. In the photographs, Kahawaty wears various ensembles, including jumpsuits and striking, floor-length gowns.
Kahawaty has worked with luxury brands such as Tod’s, Prada, Boucheron, Chloe, Gucci and more.
She was also tapped by Boss for a new campaign this month. In the polaroid-style images she shared on Instagram, Kahawaty wore a brown bomber jacket paired with a crisp white shirt, complemented by a black bag adorned with a chunky gold buckle and chain.
Boss has released similar images for other A-list stars, including US superstar Demi Lovato, British model Jordan Dunn, Bollywood star Sonam Kapoor, Colombian singer and songwriter Maluma, South Korean actor Jeon Changha and Canadian Belgian racing driver Lance Stroll.
The digital campaign, which began in January 2023, initially starred US Palestinian producer DJ Khaled, US Dutch Palestinian model Gigi Hadid, Syrian Olympic swimmer Yusra Mardini, Lebanese influencer and entrepreneur Karen Wazen, Emirati host Anas Bukhash and Iraqi para-athlete Zainab Al-Eqabi.
Yara Shahidi features in star-studded Cartier campaign
DUBAI: Part-Middle Eastern actress Yara Shahidi, K-Pop star Jisoo, Irish Oscar nominee Paul Mescal, British singer Labrinth and Hong Kong rapper Jackson Wang all star in a campaign by Cartier released on Tuesday.
“Grown-ish” star Shahidi, whose father is Iranian, stars in the new film and image campaign that celebrates the Trinity jewelery collection turning 100 years old.
Designed by Louis Cartier in 1924, Cartier is marking the centenary of the Trinity ring’s creation with the new campaign, the release of three new designs and, previously, a trio of parties.
Harvard graduate Shahidi, who is a brand ambassador for Cartier and a global ambassador for French luxury label Dior, was on hand as the label marked the occasion with a party in New York on Feb. 1.
“The Maison chose to host three near-simultaneous events in the three capitals where the three Cartier brothers — Louis, Pierre and Jacques — settled at the beginning of the 20th century. These are the cities where they built the Maison’s three temples: Rue de la Paix, Fifth Avenue and New Bond Street,” Cartier said in a released statement.
Author and Cartier family member Francesca Cartier Brickell spoke to Arab News about the jewelry house in February at Dubai's Emirates Airline Festival of Literature. The writer of “The Cartiers: The Untold Story of the Family Behind the Jewelry Empire” shared insights into the family’s past, as well as the label’s unexpected beginnings.
Louis-François Cartier started as an apprentice in the jewelry trade and worked long hours before founding the business in 1847. “It’s so easy to imagine that Cartier today was always a big business, but it wasn’t – it was a startup. And it was a startup by someone incredibly poor and without money. There was a revolution the first year after he established it, and he thought the business would go under,” Cartier Brickell said.
While Louis-François’ son Alfred grew the business, his grandchildren, Louis, Pierre, and Jacques took the Cartier name further and forged bonds with royalty in Europe, the Middle East, and India.
For her part, Shahidi also starred in a campaign for French label Jean-Paul Gaultier in September 2023 and the 24-year-old was nominated for a NAACP Image Award earlier this year.
The NAACP Image Awards is an annual awards ceremony presented by the US-based National Association for the Advancement of Colored People. The awards show honors outstanding performances in film, television, theater, music, and literature.
Shahidi was nominated for the outstanding actress in a motion series category for her role in “Sitting in Bars with Cake,” a romantic comedy-drama film directed by Trish Sie and written by Audrey Shulman.
Model Sandra Shehab partners with New York-based fine jewelry label
DUBAI: US Egyptian model Sandra Shehab took to social media this week to partner with US jewelry label David Yurman in order to promote the label’s Sculped Cable collection.
“My @davidyurman pieces always elevate the look,” the model captioned a short video, in which she can be seen trying on a set of the fine jewelry label’s signature creations. The Sculpted Cable collection is a play on the jewelry house’s signature cable motif. The updated version transforms the original twisted helix into a carved relief.
Founded in 1980 by David and Sybil Yurman, the jewelry house’s signature motif was created not long after. According to the brand’s website, David shaped 50 feet of gold wire into the first Cable design, with pink tourmaline and emerald end caps, in 1982. The twisted motif became a calling card for the brand, so much so that David described it as “the river that runs through all of our designs,” in a previously released statement.
In her post, Shehab shows off a pair of Sculped Cable bangles, including one bangle boasting hand-set pavé diamonds, as well as a pair of rings and earrings.
The New Jersey native came into the limelight in 2018 after appearing in Season 24 of “America’s Next Top Model.” Although she was eliminated in episode eight, coming in 8th place, she scored fans on social media for her portrayal of Muslim women on screen.
"I feel I represented my community pretty well. I wanted to show Muslim girls that they can do whatever they want. I hope they see that," Shehab said as she left the show.
The star is now spotted at fashion weeks around the world and has worked with numerous brands on social media.
Shehab attended Lebanese designer Elie Saab’s Fall/Winter ready-to-wear 2024-25 collection showcase at Paris Fashion Week in March and was in good company. The model was spotted in the crowd alongside influencers Olivia Palermo, Nathalie Fanj and Tamara Kalinic.
Shehab is also no stranger to the world of jewelry — her sister Amy is a fine jewelry designer and founded an eponymous label that has branched out into handbags and accessories.
Imaan Hammam fronts new fragrance campaign for Jean Paul Gaultier
DUBAI: Dutch-Moroccan-Egyptian model Imaan Hammam is fronting yet another perfume campaign for French luxury brand Jean Paul Gaultier — this time for their Scandal line. The luxury brand released both male and female fragrances for their new drop, Scandal Absolu.
The label released a series of campaign images, featuring the 27-year-old model alongside Dutch model Parker Van Noord.
While Hammam made her catwalk debut back in 2013 walking for Jean Paul Gaultier, she was only recruited to star in the brand’s campaign in 2021 for the launch of the So Scandal perfume range.
Meanwhile, Hammam recently made a head-turning appearance at the launch party for a new lipstick collection by Estee Lauder and Sabyasachi Mukherjee, wearing a mini straight-cut floral dress in a palette of green, white and black. She accessorized with black tights and black heels.
Her glossy locks were styled in a half-up, half-down hairdo. Embracing a bold makeup choice, Hammam opted for a dramatic glam look featuring sharp black eyeliner.
Taking to Instagram to share her excitement, Hammam called it a “dream collaboration” and thanked Estee Lauder and Mukherjee for the partnership.
The new matte-hued lipsticks, with shades named Calcutta Red and Rouge Bengal, draw inspiration from the vibrant palette of colors found in India.
Each lipstick is encased in packaging adorned with the signature Sabyasachi Tiger medallion, crafted from 24-karat gold.
Hammam was announced as the global ambassador for the US cosmetics giant in May 2023.
“It’s truly an honor and a dream to join the Estee Lauder family. I’m so excited to show you all the incredible things we have in store,” she wrote on Instagram at the time.
Hammam previously spoke about what the appointment means to her.
“This is the most amazing opportunity to represent and empower girls around the world. As a Moroccan-Egyptian woman, I am incredibly honored to take on this role with such a long-standing brand that promotes diversity and women’s empowerment in the beauty space,” she said.
Hammam is one of the most in-demand models in the industry. She has appeared on the runway for major fashion houses including Burberry, Fendi, Prada, Marc Jacobs, Moschino, Balenciaga and Carolina Herrera. She has also starred in international campaigns for brands including DKNY, Celine, Chanel, Versace, Givenchy, Giorgio Armani and Tiffany & Co.
Gigi Hadid highlights collaboration with beauty brand
DUBAI: US Dutch Palestinian model Gigi Hadid this week teased a new collaboration with US cosmetics brand Maybelline.
“It’s me, your resident @maybelline super stay gal,” she wrote on Instagram, sharing a mirror selfie wearing red lipstick and soft makeup. She was dressed in a white T-shirt featuring a smiley face, complemented by a black jacket. Hadid also showcased her new soft-bob hairstyle, which she debuted earlier this month.
The model then shared a close-up picture of a camera, hinting that she could be teaming up with the brand for a new campaign.
Last week, the model posted a picture of herself and wrote: “Lil glam with some of my new @maybelline faves — tattoo studio liquid liner, build-a-brow and plump lifter gloss.”
Last year, the cosmetics brand starred Chilean Palestinian singer Elyanna, Egyptian actress Amira Adeeb and Kuwaiti content creator Khattafya in its campaign for Ramadan.
The three stars promoted the brand’s Lash Sensation Sky High mascara, the Fit Me Vitamin C tint and the Superstay lipstick.
Hadid has had a bustling start to the year.
Earlier this month, she graced the runways of Chanel and Miu Miu during Paris Fashion Week.
The catwalk sensation walked the Miu Miu runway in a white-collared, knee-length dress featuring a slit down the middle. The ensemble also featured a luxurious brown fur coat, complemented by a sleek leather purse and stylish pointy-toed leather shoes.
For the Chanel show, Hadid — a mother of one — stepped out in a black knit dress featuring a turtle-neck collar. The dress was designed with a diagonal cut from below the waist, adorned with sheer fabric. She also sported a thin black belt with a gold clasp.
In February, she stunned the Versace runway in Milan in a black sheer, collared dress featuring intricate button-down detailing and a daring thigh-high slit. Complementing her ensemble, she sported black latex gloves and accentuated her look with sharp eye makeup.
She started the year in January with the French label Jacquemus’s show in France. She wore a textured cream-colored coat featuring exaggerated curved sleeves. The coat was layered over a crisp, white-collared shirt.