DUBAI: For a chef of Thomas Keller’s caliber — he has multiple restaurants with long-held three Michelin stars, has concepts that are regularly rated among the World’s 50 Best Restaurants and he has several James Beard awards under his belt — entering a new market is no light matter. With a successful career spanning more than 40 years behind him, and his name firmly embedded in the culinary world’s hall of fame as one of the greats, he probably does not even need to expand across the globe.
However, he has entered the Middle East region for the first time with not one but three outlets of Bouchon Bakery — one in Dubai and two in Kuwait — and he credits this entirely to Mohammed Al-Shaya, scion of the Al-Shaya retail and F&B empire that brought the franchise here.
“He made me come here. His organization and team gave me a great sense of confidence for us to be able to execute what we do at home, here,” said Keller, who made a whistle-stop trip to the region to officially launch the Dubai outlet recently.
“It’s all about relationships for me. Ours began over three years ago and he’s proven to me that not only is he a wonderful human being, we have a wonderful friendship that’s come out of this, but his business sense and ability to perform is unparalleled.”
Keller’s first encounter with the region was, in fact, nearly 10 years ago, when he had come here on a recce trip, during which time he had advised the authorities that they need to invest in farms and education to develop the culinary scene.
While that side of the industry has definitely evolved, he still feels that it might be a bit too premature to think about bringing some of his other upscale restaurant concepts — like The French Laundry and Per Se or even Bouchon Bistro — to the region.
“Right now, this is the right brand for me to put my foot into the Middle East, without becoming too ambitious,” he explained. “A restaurant is very different, you have to get too many different (fresh) ingredients and that requires a lot of time to source from the right people. It’s too early to start thinking about bringing other concepts here. We have to think about building relationships with suppliers, with the farmers and fishermen.”
Describing Bouchon Bakery as a traditional French boulangerie, Keller states clearly that he is not reinventing the wheel. “I’m trying to create a café that you would find in Paris, or Lyon or Marseilles… that’s always been what Bouchon Bakery is about, it’s what you would find in an urban area in France. And it’s nice to see all the little details we worked on come together here.”
All the Middle East-based locations manage to recreate that authentic French café vibe quite successfully — from the elegant, warm décor complete with bistro chairs, coffered walls and vintage lamps to the fittingly-traditional food.
The menu includes delectable pastries, artisanal breads, a selection of salads and sandwiches and mouthwatering macarons (they do gift boxes too) all freshly made on-site, plus Keller’s custom coffee blend created by Equator Coffees and Teas.
Some tweaks tailored to the region have been made, however.
“We’ve made certain modifications and introduced some things specifically for our Middle East outlets,” he said. “The rosewater Paris-brest or the mango éclair, for example, is very regional for us, but apart from a few items on the menu, most everything else is exactly as it would be at home (in the US).”
The standard of food and service is also on par with his international outlets, something Keller appears to be very happy with. “I’m so proud of the quality of work the team here does — the kitchen team, the baking team, the service team — I think they are doing an extraordinary job,” he says. “I had this meal prepared for me by some of our chefs in Kuwait and I was blown away with the food. The chefs here, they get it.”
This humility and generosity of spirit seems integral to the success story of this no-nonsense chef and astute restaurateur, although he puts it down to hard work and dedication. Passing on most of the credit to the team on the ground, he uses the analogy of a sports team to define his trajectory.
“Being a cook is exactly like being an athlete. We practice and practice, sometimes we succeed, sometimes we don’t — but we always want to come back and do it all again tomorrow. Every athlete is emotionally attached to their job — that’s what cooking is like,” he said. “And the other aspect is having a strong sense of collaboration with the team. I believe in recognizing people for what they’ve achieved, because the more elevated you become in your career, your job becomes that of being a leader, of teaching and mentoring and that’s very important. The chefs in my team are better than I am — if they weren’t, that means I haven’t done a good job.”
If his measures of success are a strong team and “giving guests an experience they will remember,” then do the numerous awards he has garnered mean anything?
“I can’t explain why I’ve got all these awards — I go to work, do my job. Someone wants to give me a medal, I say thank you very much and go back to work,” he said matter-of-factly. “But remember, every award that you receive is for what you did yesterday — what are you doing today and what you are going to do tomorrow, that’s more important. We’re working on today and tomorrow.”
Meet the world-renowned chef who is baking up a treat in the Middle East
Meet the world-renowned chef who is baking up a treat in the Middle East
Recipes for success: Chef Lorenzo Buccarini offers advice and a pasta and caviar recipe
DUBAI: “I discovered my passion for cooking at a young age, being drawn to the sights and smells from my family’s kitchen,” Zenon Dubai’s executive chef Lorenzo Buccarini tells Arab News. “My earliest memory of cooking is helping my grandmother prepare lasagna. Those moments ignited a lifelong love affair with the culinary arts.”.
Zenon, located at Kempinski Central Avenue in the heart of Downtown Dubai, offers Mediterranean and Asian cuisine.
“Working with Zenon Dubai has been an enriching experience filled with creativity and collaboration, allowing me to push boundaries,” said Buccarini.
From the vibrant culinary scene of London in 2012 to Istanbul in 2014, Bali in 2016, and Morocco in 2018, Buccarini has dabbled in an array of cuisines over the years. Here, he discusses his go-to dish, favorite cuisine and most challenging dish to prepare.
Q: When you started out, what was the most common mistake you made?
A: Underestimating the importance of proper seasoning. Achieving the perfect balance of flavors is essential in every dish, and mastering seasoning techniques was a valuable lesson early in my career.
What’s your top tip for amateur chefs?
Invest in quality ingredients and don’t be afraid to experiment. Additionally, learn fundamental cooking techniques such as knife skills and proper seasoning, as they form the foundation of any great dish.
What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish?
Fresh herbs — whether it’s parsley, basil, cilantro, or thyme, incorporating fresh herbs adds depth and complexity to your cooking. They elevate the flavor of any dish.
When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?
Naturally, as a chef, I pay attention to the details if I’m dining out.
What’s the most common issue that you find in other restaurants?
Something I often notice is inconsistency in execution — whether it’s undercooked proteins, over-seasoned dishes, or lackluster presentation. Consistency is key to delivering memorable dining experiences.
And what’s your favorite cuisine when you go out?
I do enjoy exploring different cuisines, but if I had to choose a favorite, it would have to be classic Italian cuisine. There’s something inherently comforting and soul-satisfying about dishes like homemade pasta or a perfectly cooked risotto that never fails to delight the palate.
What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home?
Spaghetti aglio e olio. It’s a simple yet flavorful pasta dish made with garlic, olive oil, chili flakes, and parsley. It’s quick to prepare and showcases the beauty of minimalistic Italian cooking.
What customer behavior most annoys you?
It can be frustrating when customers request significant modifications to a dish without considering the integrity of the recipe. While accommodating dietary restrictions is important, excessive alterations can compromise the intended flavors and balance of the dish.
What’s your favorite dish to cook?
One of them is osso buco. It’s a classic Italian dish made with braised veal shanks, aromatic vegetables, and a rich tomato-based sauce. The slow cooking process allows the flavors to meld together beautifully, resulting in a dish that’s hearty, flavorful, and deeply satisfying.
What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right?
For me, mastering the perfect risotto has always been a challenge. Achieving the ideal balance of creaminess and texture while ensuring the rice is cooked to perfection requires precision and attention to detail. It’s a dish that demands patience and practice to get just right.
As a head chef, what are you like? Are you a disciplinarian? Or are you more laidback?
I try to maintain a balance between discipline and approachability. I do set high standards for my team, and I expect professionalism in the kitchen, but I believe in fostering a supportive and collaborative environment. Effective communication and mutual respect are essential for success in any kitchen.
Chef Lorenzo’s pasta, cream reduction and caviar
INGREDIENTS
For the cream reduction: 1L double cream; 500g dried porcini; 1L water
For the fresh pasta (can be substituted for store-bought pasta): 600g semolina flour; 1400g 00 flour; 8 fresh eggs; 300g water
INSTRUCTIONS
1. To reduce the cream, add it to a pan and gradually reduce the heat to a slow boil, stirring frequently. As the water boils off, the cream will be reduced. You want to reduce it by half. Then place the pan to one side.
2. For mushroom stock, add the dried porcini to a pan with the water and simmer for one hour. Strain immediately. Reduce the stock by ¾.
3. For the pasta, mix all ingredients together to make a dough. Put in the fridge for one hour. Remove from the fridge and shape it as you like (here at the restaurant we do rigatoni). You can just use standard, store-bought pasta too.
4. Cook the pasta in boiling water for five or six minutes (or as instructed for store-bought pasta), then drain.
5. Put 250g of the cream reduction and 20g of reduced mushrooms into a hot shallow pan. Add a pinch of salt. Add the pasta to the sauce. Stir. Add a little parmesan and top with caviar.
Where We Are Going Today: ‘Abou El-Sid’ authentic Egyptian restaurant in Jeddah
- Abou El-Sid truly offered an immersive and delightful culinary experience
As a food enthusiast eager to explore diverse cuisines, I recently visited Abou El-Sid, an authentic Egyptian restaurant in Jeddah.
The ambiance welcomed me with dim lighting, maroon walls, and nostalgic portraits of iconic figures from Egypt’s golden age of cinema.
I began with the lisan asfour soup, its flavorful broth setting the stage for the feast ahead. For mains, I enjoyed traditional dishes like molokheya, mixed grill, and mahashi, each bursting with authentic flavors.
To accompany my meal, I couldn’t resist the mumbar, a savory delight of lamb intestines stuffed with rice and spices.
Opting for outdoor seating, I basked in the warm sun and tranquil atmosphere, enhanced by classic Egyptian melodies playing softly in the background. Abou El-Sid truly offered an immersive and delightful culinary experience.
Who is Abou El-Sid?
In the heart of Fatimid Cairo resided a humble yet legendary cook, Al-Sayyed Abou El-Sid. Renowned for his exquisite dishes, influenced by the Ottoman Empire and Egypt’s rich gastronomic heritage, his culinary masterpieces attracted admirers from far and wide. Even the sultan, after tasting his creations in disguise, offered him a prestigious position as his chef.
However, Abou El-Sid realized that palace life couldn’t replace the warmth of his humble home. Despite the sultan’s refusal to let him go, he eventually escaped, leaving behind his culinary secrets in a book.
Centuries later, his book was discovered, inspiring an authentic Egyptian restaurant named after him. Today, Abou El-Sid’s legacy lives on through the restaurant, delighting diners with genuine Egyptian cuisine rooted in his timeless recipes.
For more details, visit @abouelsid_ksa on Instagram.
Where We Are Going Today: ‘The Lucky Llama’ restaurant in Jeddah
- Situated in the Al-Mohammadiyyah district, The Lucky Llama was established by chef Nihal Felemban
The Lucky Llama, a fine-dining restaurant in Jeddah, specializes in Nikkei cuisine, which combines culinary elements from Peru and Japan.
This unique style blends the colors, flavors, and aromas of both countries to create a harmonious dining experience.
Nikkei cuisine showcases the delicate and imaginative aspects of Japanese cooking alongside the bold and spicy flavors of Peru.
Situated in the Al-Mohammadiyyah district, The Lucky Llama was established by chef Nihal Felemban.
The cozy interior features plush seating, soft lighting and rustic decor, creating a welcoming ambiance.
I began with the salmon crispy rice, a blend of crispy rice, spicy truffle sauce, Norwegian salmon and jalapeno slices for a spicy kick. Each bite offers a harmony of flavors and textures, with the rice crunch complementing the buttery salmon.
To cleanse my palate between dishes, I chose the sake sour, a refreshing mix of sake, lime, yuzu and green tea syrup.
The nigiri menu stands out with vibrant flavors.
The scallop nigiri delighted with its rich umami taste, enhanced by truffle butter, parmesan and black lime zest.
My main course, the arroz con langosta, featured bomba rice, tom yum Nikkei broth, lobster and prawns — similar to paella but with a unique fusion twist.
For dessert, I enjoyed the sweet churros coated in cinnamon sugar, dipped in creamy dulce de leche.
The welcoming staff and top-notch service elevate the cozy ambiance. For more details, visit @theluckyllama.co on Instagram.
Top restaurant suggestions across the Kingdom during Eid holidays
- Suhail provides an authentic Saudi hospitality experience based on traditional cuisine
- Le Grenier a Pain in Riyadh is a charming French bakery and brunch spot
JEDDAH: The Eid breakfast, when loved ones come together to share delicious food and create lasting memories, is a cherished tradition. If you are looking to elevate your Eid breakfast experience, here are some top restaurants from around the Kingdom:
Suhail
Suhail provides an authentic Saudi hospitality experience based on traditional cuisine. Its ambiance takes inspiration from the captivating allure of the Arabian Peninsula desert, offering a comfortable setting for diners.
Lute Twaiq
Indulge in Italian and Levantine cuisine at Lute Twaiq. The Riyadh restaurant offers a breakfast buffet featuring traditional Italian and Levantine delicacies, including pasta, risotto and Neapolitan pizzas. Options like the eggplant beef hamsa are also available, prepared in the Neapolitan style. Eid breakfast starts at 6 a.m., perfect for early morning celebrations. Dammam residents can also enjoy Lute Twaiq at a branch in the city.
Le Grenier a Pain
Le Grenier a Pain in Riyadh is a charming French bakery and brunch spot. The menu features an array of French baked treats, including flaky croissants, buttery pain au chocolat and indulgent quiches. For Eid breakfast, Le Grenier a Pain serves specially prepared dips and diverse cheese platters, ideal for sit-down family gatherings or as a grab-and-go option.
ALFOLK
Enjoy breakfast at ALFOLK in Shangri La Hotel, featuring an international cuisine spread for SR595 ($158) per person. Alongside delicious dishes, guests can enjoy live music by two talented musicians, a photo booth and fun activities like face painting and clown performances. A fun-filled morning is the perfect start for Eid festivities.
The Waterfront Kitchen
The Waterfront Kitchen serves breakfast from 7 a.m. to 11:30 a.m. After enjoying a delicious meal, guests can continue their Eid celebrations with the regular lunch menu. Families can also take advantage of two hours of complimentary access to the kids’ club.
Burnt restaurant
Celebrate Eid at Burnt restaurant with a morning feast featuring a curated menu of dishes. Try the cheese platter, offering three dips paired with flavorful accompaniments for SR43. The restaurant also serves fried Asian eggs, a fusion of roasted potato and kohlrabi with Korean chili and miso, topped with fried eggs and sesame, for SR24.
Atareek Al-Madi
Atareek is a cultural hub featuring a museum, art gallery and space for Hijazi folk celebrations. It showcases traditional karweet and mirkaz wooden benches adorned with intricate Arabesque designs. Atareek’s Eid breakfast serves popular Saudi dishes like mugalgal, mandi lamb, Saudi white coffee and Ta’ateemah.
Pattis France
Pattis France, nestled on Prince Turki Corniche Road along the Alkhobar waterfront, provides a refined setting for an elegant Eid morning with family. The menu boasts a variety of egg dishes — scrambled, poached, or as omelets — alongside French baked treats and artisan desserts.
Fatte w Snobar
Fatte w Snobar offers authentic Levantine cuisine across multiple branches in Alkhobar, Dammam, Al-Ahsa, Abha, Al-Qassim and Madinah. The restaurant provides convenient breakfasts and grab-and-go packages perfect for Eid. These curated boxes feature a variety of dishes, including creamy hummus, foul, crispy falafel, succulent kebdah, omelets, assorted cheeses, pickles and fresh salads.
Mild
Located in the heart of King Abdullah Branch Road in Madinah, Mild offers a modern culinary experience perfect for Eid breakfast. With a chic and contemporary interior, Mild presents a carefully crafted menu that blends international flavors with local inspirations. From cheese platters to Arabic falafel bowls, refreshing falafel salads to bold bruschetta bowls, and Mexican omelets to Tunisian shakshuka, there are choices for every palate. With options ranging from sandwiches to tacos and focaccia, Mild ensures a pleasant dining experience for all.
Where We Are Going Today: ‘Guaka’ - Mexican-style cuisine in Jeddah
- With its vast and flavorful menu offerings, Guaka restaurant promises a dining experience that celebrates the rich culinary heritage of Mexico in a vibrant and inviting setting
Located on Prince Sultan Road in Rawdah district, Guaka is a new addition to the culinary scene, specializing in authentic Mexican-style cuisine.
This family-friendly restaurant offers a varied menu featuring classic dishes such as their signature guacamole dip paired with crispy tortilla chips.
Start your culinary journey with a selection of appetizers, including taquitos, and deep-fried tortilla rolls stuffed with savory beef, served with a side of salsa. For a hearty and satisfying main course, indulge in the Mexican-style rice bowl featuring tender chicken or beef, topped with sweet corn, creamy guacamole and a flavorful sauce.
A standout dish is the Birra nachos, which combines Mexican-style slow-cooked beef with crunchy corn tortilla chips, topped with a medley of ingredients such as pepper, jack cheese, sour cream, jalapenos and chipotle mayo. The result is a harmonious blend of flavors and textures.
From the fiery chipotle chicken tacos to the delicious grilled shrimp tacos laced with lime and dill, Guaka’s many options cater to all tastes. The marinated beef al pastor tacos are served with grilled peppers and fruits cooked in a shawarma style and topped with onion and parsley. Tacos with grilled vegetables and a smoked eggplant salsa topped with fried okra and red radish are another tasty alternative for vegetarian diners.
For those craving a comforting classic, the quesadilla menu offers both chicken and beef varieties served in warm, white tortillas. To end your meal on a sweet note, indulge in the decadent de toast dessert, a delicious treat featuring bread battered with dulce de leche and topped with a luscious white cream.
Quench your thirst with a selection of refreshing drinks, including the mango rosemary chili mojito, the pineapple vanilla margarita made with fresh pineapple and vanilla, and the basil coconut mojito, a delightful blend of fresh lemon and lime juice with hints of basil and coconut syrup.
With its vast and flavorful menu offerings, Guaka restaurant promises a dining experience that celebrates the rich culinary heritage of Mexico in a vibrant and inviting setting.
For updates and more details, check their Instagram @guaka.sa
